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国家地理:香氛熏陶的历史(5)

所属教程:国家地理

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2021年07月18日

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Today most Kannauj attar ends up in the Middle East and among regional Muslim communities in India. In Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk, a market built in the 17th-century by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, Gulab Singh Johrimal is a longtime institution that now carries both attar and modern fragrances. It's almost always full of Muslim men in search of attar to scent themselves before Friday prayers and festivals such as Eid.

现如今,卡瑙杰大部分的阿塔尔最后会输往中东,或是印度的地区性穆斯林小区。在蒙兀儿皇帝沙贾汗于17世纪建立的旧德里月光市集中,古拉布·辛格·久里马尔这家老店如今既贩卖阿塔尔,也贩卖现代香水。在周五的礼拜和开斋节等节日前,店内几乎总是挤满了男性穆斯林,找寻用来妆点自己的阿塔尔。

But local markets aren't enough to sustain the Kannauj's distilleries, and many have had to close or shift to making facsimiles of Western perfumes.

然而当地市场不足以支撑卡瑙杰的蒸馏厂,许多蒸馏厂不得不收掉或转型仿制西方香水。

Nonetheless, Kapoor is optimistic. He spends much of his time courting top international perfume houses, touting the traditions of attar and the terroir of Kannauj botanicals. "Western tastes are shifting East," he says. "Typically, the West prefers light, citrusy notes, but these days you see the big daddies like Dior, Hermès, and of course, the Middle Eastern perfume houses going for gilded scents like rose and shamama."

尽管如此,卡浦尔还是很乐观。他花很多时间宣扬阿塔尔的传统以及卡瑙杰的植物风土特色,以寻求国际顶级香水公司的注意。“西方的品味正逐渐转向东方。”他说:“西方一般偏好清爽的柑橘调性,不过现在你会发现像迪奥、爱马仕等龙头公司,当然还有中东的香水公司,都开始采用玫瑰和沙玛玛等奢华的香气。”

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