国家地理:香氛熏陶的历史(2)

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Unlike modern perfumes, which have alcohol as a carrier -- because it's inexpensive, neutral, and easily diffused -- attars traditionally use sandalwood oil, making them unctuous and highly absorptive. The scent of a droplet lingers pleasantly on the skin, sometimes for days.

阿塔尔不像现代香水是以酒精作为载体，因为酒精便宜、中性而且容易扩散香气，传统上阿塔尔是使用檀香油，因此具有油性，而且皮肤很容易吸收。在皮肤上滴一滴阿塔尔，迷人的香气可以维持很久，有时甚至能维持好几天。

Equally enchanting to men and women, attars strike intense floral, woodsy, musky, smoky, or grassy notes. Attars for cold seasons can be warming with sense of cloves, cardamom, saffron. In warmer seasons, attars can bring cooling fragrances of jasmine, vetiver and marigold.

阿塔尔有各种调性，包括浓郁的花香、木质、麝香、烟熏或草本，无论男女都爱使用。在寒冷的季节，可以使用丁香、豆蔻和番红花等散发温暖香气的阿塔尔；在较温暖的季节，则可以使用茉莉、岩兰草和万寿菊等带来凉爽香气的阿塔尔。

Kannauj produces these, as well as the enigmatic mitti attar, which evokes the scent of earth after a rainfall thanks to baked alluvial clay in the distillation. Shamama, another coveted invention, is a distilled blend of 40 or more flowers, herbs, and resins that takes days to make and months to age. Some perfume houses in Europe use these attars -- rose, vetiver, jasmine, and others -- as a layer, a compelling chord in the composition of modern perfumery.

卡瑙杰还生产神秘的“米蒂”阿塔尔，它带有雨后泥土的芬芳，那是因为蒸馏过程中使用了窑烧冲积土。另一款令人向往的作品“沙玛玛”，则是由四十多种花卉、药草和树脂蒸馏混合，费时数天制作以及数月熟成。一些欧洲的香水公司在制作现代香水时，会使用玫瑰、岩兰草、茉莉等香气的阿塔尔，作为令人着迷的基底。