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运动休闲服不是潮流,而是生活方式

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2020年04月22日

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“They were all wearing trainers and layers of black,”says Evelyn Cotter,a career coach based in London.She’s describing a recent public speaking conference she attended,where the crowd of ambitious young professionals were dressed in a uniform way.

"他们都穿着运动鞋和一身黑衣服。"伦敦职场教练伊芙琳·考特(Evelyn Cotter)说。她描述着最近参加的一场公开演讲活动,与会的那些满怀抱负的年轻专业人士都穿着风格统一的服装。

“Everyone had come straight from work,they were wearing black jeans and smart sneakers,but it definitely felt professional,”adds Cotter.“It’s a conscious style choice.It’s not just what you throw on to play with your dog in the garden.”

"所有人都是下班后直接过来的。他们都穿着黑色牛仔裤和时尚运动鞋,但这确实感觉是很符合职业人士的服装。"考特说,"他们特意选择了这种风格,而不仅仅是在院子里逗狗玩的时候才穿这些衣服。"

The industry of‘athleisure’–sporty clothes and shoes that people don’t necessarily wear to play sport–grew by a staggering 42%between 2008 and 2015,according to Morgan Stanley research.More recently,its influence has begun to creep into offices,where workers’clothing is becoming increasingly relaxed and designed for comfort.The Society for Human Resource Management,an international organisation,tracks how many employers allow workers to dress casually every day,and that figure rose from 32%in 2014 to 44%in 2016.

"运动休闲服"指的是并非专为参加运动而设计的运动服和运动鞋,该行业在2008至2015年间实现了42%的惊人增长。最近,它的影响力开始向办公室渗透,职员们的服装变得越来越休闲,越来越重视舒适性。国际组织人力资源管理学会(The Society for Human Resource Management)追踪了允许雇员每天穿休闲服上班的雇主数量,结果发现,这一比例从2014年的32%增长到2016年的44%。

运动休闲服不是潮流,而是生活方式

It’s not just trainers making their way into work uniforms.There are also suit trousers with a drawstring waist,designed to blur the lines between tracksuit bottoms and smart trousers,and perfectly conventional-looking dress shirts and jackets made with the type of hi-tech fabric that you’d usually associate with hiking or the gym.

进入职业装序列的不只是运动鞋。有的西裤也设计了松紧腰带,为的是模糊运动裤与时尚长裤之间的界限。甚至有一些表面看来很传统的衬衣和夹克,实际上也采用了通常只能在徒步或健身服饰中见到的高科技面料。

UK designer Joanna Sykes has designed her new collection entirely around this theme,referring to the look as“tracksuit suiting”.It includes tracksuit bottoms smart enough to wear with jackets and a white poplin shirt that fastens with a zip.

英国设计师乔娜·赛克斯(Joanna Sykes)曾经围绕这一主题设计过一组全新的服装,她将那种样式称作"运动正装",包括可以跟夹克搭配的时尚运动裤,以及配有拉链的白色府绸衬衫。

“This athleisure thing,”Sykes says,“I don’t see it as a trend but more of a permanent lifestyle shift.More and more people are working remotely and on the move,and expectations of a woman’s uniform in the workplace have changed.People want to feel more comfortable,but they also want to look smart.”

"我不觉得运动休闲是一种潮流,"赛克斯说,"我认为这是生活方式的一种永久性变化。远程工作的人越来越多,而人们对女性职业装的预期也已经改变。人们希望穿着更加舒服,但又不失时尚。"

Not everyone can get away with wearing a tracksuit to work,of course,and Cotter advises her clients to pay a certain amount of attention to the usual attire of their clients or bosses when deciding how formally to dress.

当然,并非所有人都可以穿运动服上班,而考特也建议她的客户在决定究竟应该穿多么正式的服装时,参考一下他们自己的客户和老板日常的穿着。

Harvard researchers have found that those who intentionally resist convention come across as competent and powerful–they call it the“red sneaker effect”–but Cotter suggests that,“if putting a look together isn’t your natural strength,then play it safe.”

哈佛大学研究人员发现,故意对抗传统的人会给人留下有能力、有权势的印象——他们称之为"红运动鞋效应"——但考特建议,"如果穿着打扮不是你的强项,那就应该谨慎求稳。"


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