高下无法立判的米兰和巴黎男装周

What to Look For During Paris Men’s Fashion Week

高下无法立判的米兰和巴黎男装周

When the traveling circus arrives at last in Paris, creakier and grouchier than it began weeks ago in London but no less properly dressed, the men’s wear marathon begins its final lap.

巴黎——巡演马戏团终于到达巴黎，比几周前在伦敦开始时更陈腐，更爱发牢骚，但是服装的精致程度丝毫未减，这场男装马拉松开始了它的最后一轮。

After tumult and celebration in Milan - which offered drama at Gucci and self-congratulation on the Via Gesù, where the ever-growing number of men’s luxury stores, newly enhanced with the addition of Caruso, Rubinacci and Luciano Barbera, merited, in the opinion of the city, the honorary title of La Via dell’Uomo - Paris offers more creative satisfactions but, perhaps, fewer immediate highs and lows. Time will tell.

米兰的男装周上有古驰(Gucci)的戏剧性场面，此外那里的耶稣街(Via Gesù)也颇为沾沾自喜，这条街上的奢侈男装店越来越多，Caruso、Rubinacci和Luciano Barbera三大品牌的进驻更是锦上添花，在米兰看来，耶稣街配得上“男装街”的荣誉称号。在这一系列骚动和庆祝之后，巴黎上演了更有创意的时装秀，不过也许不能高下立判。时间会告诉我们一切。

From left: Guillaume Henry, Raf Simons and Rick Owens are all showing their men's collections in Paris.

(左起)纪尧姆·亨利、拉夫·西蒙斯和里克·欧文斯都在巴黎展示自己的男装系列。

One early show, Carven, has disappeared from the runway. In October, Carven’s former designer, Guillaume Henry, decamped for Nina Ricci in the latest round of fashion musical chairs. His last men’s collection will be shown quietly, by appointment, as his successor has not yet been named.

卡纷(Carven)早先的一场时装秀从秀台上消失了。10月份，卡纷的前设计师纪尧姆·亨利(Guillaume Henry)在最新一轮时装界抢椅子游戏中跳槽去了莲娜丽姿(Nina Ricci)担任职位。他的最后一个男装系列将按照约定悄悄展示，因为他的继任者尚未任命。

Paris’s opening Wednesday brings Valentino, Haider Ackermann, Christophe Lemaire and Raf Simons to the fall 2015 conversation, with Mr. Simons using his invitation to make a bold statement, rendered in bright red letters on a fold-out poster: “To the archives, no longer relevant.” But what will all the obsessive collectors trawling eBay for bits of vintage Raf have to say about that?

周三，在巴黎的开幕日上，华伦天奴(Valentino)、海德·艾克曼(Haider Ackermann)、克里斯托弗·勒梅尔(Christophe Lemaire)和拉夫·西蒙斯(Raf Simons)开始了2015年的秋冬时装对话。西蒙斯在邀请函中做出大胆声明，在折叠式海报上用鲜红的字体写道：“从此，与服装档案再无关系。”但是，在eBay上痴迷搜寻拉夫·西蒙斯那些旧设计的收藏者们对此会作何感想?

After that, the week kicks into gear, with highlights every day. It wouldn’t be a Paris week without Rick Owens’s black-clad acolytes arriving en masse to his show, or the latest big-budget spectacle from Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton. (If his Instagram is any indication, he’s been looking at the work of the late English avant-garde designer Christopher Nemeth for inspiration, and at least one Daimler-printed bag.)

之后，这次男装周开始全速运转，每天都有亮点。巴黎时装周少不了里克·欧文斯(Rick Owens)那些身穿黑衣的追随者，他们成群结队来到他的时装秀;也少不了路易·威登(Louis Vuitton)的金姆·琼斯(Kim Jones)最新的大成本华丽时装秀(如果他的Instagram能说明一些问题的话，可以看出，他从已故的英国先锋设计师克里斯托弗·内梅特 [Christopher Nemeth]的作品中寻找灵感，至少Daimler印花手袋的灵感来源于此)。

Paris Fashion Week is among the most global of the fashion weeks, where one day you can see the latest collections from Belgian labels, like Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester and Maison Margiela; another day, those from Japan, including Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons, Miharayasuhiro and Sacai. (Speaking of Japan, this season sees the return of an old idol of the Japanese-fashion cognoscenti: Takahiro Miyashita, of the cult-worshipped line Number (N)ine, who is showing his post-(N)ine collection, The Soloist, by appointment.)

巴黎时装周是各大时装周中最具国际性的，在这里，前一天你可能看到的是比利时品牌的最新时装系列，比如德赖斯·范诺顿(Dries Van Noten)、安·迪穆拉米斯特(Ann Demeulemeester)和马吉拉屋(Maison Margiela);第二天你可能看到的是日本品牌，比如渡边淳弥(Junya Watanabe)、川久保玲(Comme des Garçons)、三原康裕(Miharayasuhiro)和Sacai——提到日本，这一季，日本时装界的行家、资深偶像宫下贵裕(Takahiro Miyashita)回归了，他曾推出受到疯狂追捧的Number (N)ine系列，现在正按照约定展示(N)ine之后的系列：The Soloist。