2014，一个折腾的时尚年

4. BRANDS AS PATRONS, BRANDS AS PLAINTIFFS

4. 各大品牌忙着赞助;忙着起诉

With its one-two punch of a transformative new designer (Nicolas Ghesquière bowing at the March shows) and a landscape-changing new contemporary art museum (Fondation Louis Vuitton) debuting during the October shows, Louis Vuitton pretty much overshadowed every other brand at Paris Fashion Week, even counting spectacles like Dries Van Noten’s déjeuner sur le catwalk, Chanel’s supermarket sweep, Undercover’s “Swan Lake” in 51 looks and Comme des Garçons’ ode to blood and roses.

路易·威登今年的组合拳包括一位革新性的新设计师(尼古拉斯·盖斯奇埃尔[Nicolas Ghesquière]在3月份的时装秀上鞠躬)和一个改变景观的新当代艺术博物馆(路易威登基金会大楼)，后者在10月份的时装周期间开幕，盖过了其他所有品牌的风头，甚至包括德赖斯·范诺顿(Dries Van Noten)秀台上的早餐;香奈儿(Chanel)的超市走秀;高桥盾UC(Undercover)有51个造型的“天鹅湖”;以及川久保玲对血与玫瑰的颂歌。

Exciting as Mr. Ghesquière’s work was, however, it was the Fondation that may have the longest-lasting effect. Indeed, it is representative of a new movement in the luxury world, wherein brands increasingly assume the role of patron of the arts and preserver of heritage. As recession-hit central governments tighten their purse strings and direct money away from arts and toward infrastructure, luxury has stepped in to close the gap.

尽管盖斯奇埃尔的作品令人兴奋，但那个基金会也许具有最长久的影响力。的确，它代表了奢侈品界的一个新动向——各大品牌越来越多地充当起艺术资助者和遗产保护者的角色。很多政府受到经济衰退冲击，节省开支，把资金从艺术界抽出，投入基础设施建设，此时，奢侈品公司挺身而出，填补了部分缺口。

Aside from Vuitton, Prada also announced the creation of its modern art complex, the Rem Koolhaas-designed Fondazione Prada, which will become Milan’s first contemporary art museum when it opens next year. Versace pledged to help restore the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, and Salvatore Ferragamo donated funds to renovate galleries at the Uffizi in Florence — all following earlier commitments by Fendi (the Fountain of Trevi), Tod’s (the Coliseum) and Diesel (the Bridge of Sighs). It’s proof that the next big battle in the luxury wars may have less to do with product than the promise of doing good.

除了路易·威登，普拉达也宣布修建自己的现代艺术综合大楼——雷姆·库哈斯(Rem Koolhaas)设计的普拉达基金会大楼，它明年开幕后将成为米兰的第一个当代艺术博物馆。范思哲(Versace)承诺帮助修复埃马努埃莱二世拱廊;萨瓦托·菲拉格慕(Salvatore Ferragamo)捐资修复佛罗伦萨的乌菲兹美术馆——这些都是追随芬迪(Fendi，修复许愿池)、Tod’s(修复罗马竞技场)和迪赛(Diesel，修复叹息桥)等先驱。这表明，未来的奢侈品大战可能与产品的关系更小，与行善承诺的关系更大。

Certainly it is a more productive use of time and money than the less salubrious trend toward settling problems in court, which suddenly seemed en vogue, with names like LVMH, Kering and Hermès, and which had the result of airing all sorts of dirty laundry in public. Happily, by year-end most of the squabbles had been resolved or sent home by the magistrates in charge, the relevant parties tasked with settling their differences out of court. Sometimes, a suit is just not a good look.

当然，与在法庭上解决问题相比，做善事是对时间和金钱更有效的使用。诉诸法庭这种不太体面的事情似乎突然之间开始流行，路威酩轩、开云和爱马仕等公司纷纷加入，结果爆出了各种丑事。令人高兴的是，年末大部分争端已经解决或者被地方法官打发回家，当事人开始在法庭之外解决分歧。有时，打官司的场面真不好看。