2014，一个折腾的时尚年

3. DESIGNER COMINGS AND GOINGS

3. 设计师来来去去

Even in fashion terms, it has been a year of designer musical chairs to an extent the industry has rarely seen. Some designers left brands to go to other brands, some simply left, and one returned. In February, Nicole and Michael Colovos left Helmut Lang; in June, Olivier Theyskens left Theory; and in July, it was announced that Christophe Lemaire would have his last Hermès show. In September, Jean Paul Gaultier announced his retirement from ready-to-wear; in November, Ralph Rucci said he was leaving the label that bears his name, and Marco Zanini was out at Schiaparelli; and in December, Kering announced that Frida Giannini would depart Gucci after 10 years at the label come February 2015. (Deep breath — there’s more.)

哪怕从时装界的角度看，今年也是设计师抢椅子游戏最火爆的一年，火爆程度在时装界也很少见。有些设计师离开某些品牌去其他品牌，有些就是离开了，有一个回归了。2月，妮科尔和迈克尔·科洛沃斯(Nicole and Michael Colovos)离开海尔姆特·朗(Helmut Lang);6月，奥利维尔·泰斯金斯(Olivier Theyskens)离开希尔瑞(Theory);7月，克里斯托弗·勒梅尔(Christophe Lemaire)宣布将举办他的最后一场爱马仕(Hermès)发布会。9月，让·保罗·高缇耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)宣布从成衣部退休;11月，拉夫·鲁奇(Ralph Rucci)称将离开自己的同名品牌，马可·萨尼尼(Marco Zanini)离开夏帕瑞丽(Schiaparelli);12月，开云集团宣布弗里达·詹尼尼(Frida Giannini)将在古驰(Gucci)工作十年之后于2015年2月离开该品牌(喘口气，后面还有)。

In October, Peter Copping left Nina Ricci to become the creative director of Oscar de la Renta, and Guillaume Henry announced he was leaving Carven to take Mr. Copping’s place at Ricci. Mulberry finally found a new creative director in the form of Céline’s accessory maestro, Johnny Coca (though he won’t start until next year), while Hermès appointed Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski as the artistic director of women’s wear, and Brooks Brothers signed up Zac Posen to be its women’s wear designer.

10月，彼得·科平(Peter Copping)离开莲娜丽姿(Nina Ricci)，成为奥斯卡·德拉伦塔(Oscar de la Renta)的创意总监;纪尧姆·亨利(Guillaume Henry)宣布他将离开卡纷(Carven)，去莲娜丽姿接替科平的职位。迈宝瑞(Mulberry)最终找到赛琳的配饰大师约翰尼·科卡 (Johnny Coca)担任新创意总监(不过他要到明年才上任)，爱马仕(Hermès)任命纳德格·范内-齐布尔斯基(Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski)担任女装艺术总监，布鲁克斯兄弟(Brooks Brothers)签约雇佣扎克·珀森(Zac Posen)担任其女装设计师。

The most splashy creative appointment of 2014, however, has to be John Galliano’s return after three years in the wilderness at the helm of Maison Martin Margiela. Though Anna Wintour, a.k.a. the most powerful woman in fashion, publicly embraced Mr. Galliano onstage at the British Fashion Awards in December, the jury is still out on whether the retail world, and consumers, have forgiven him for the drunken alleged anti-Semitic rant in 2011 that led to his firing from his former post as the artistic director at Christian Dior. The response to his first show, which will take place in London in January, will give us a clue.

不过，2014年最引人注目的任命是约翰·加利亚诺(John Galliano)在离开时装界三年之后回来执掌马丁·马吉拉(Maison Martin Margiela)。尽管时尚界最有权势的女人安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour)在12月英国时尚大奖的颁奖台上公开拥抱加利亚诺，但零售业和顾客们能否原谅他2011年醉酒后的反犹太言论尚未可知，那一言论导致他从克里斯汀·迪奥艺术总监的职位上遭到解雇。明年1月将举办他上任后的伦敦首秀，届时人们的反应，将让我们对此问题略知一二。

As for the most wrenching farewells, they were to L’Wren Scott, who committed suicide in March at age 49, and Oscar de la Renta, the New York Fashion Week pillar who died in October at 82. Both sent the fashion world into mourning, though Mr. de la Renta’s death had repercussions far beyond. Often pigeonholed as the chief couturier to the ladies who lunch, Mr. de la Renta actually had an aesthetic whose influence defined multiple political regimes, celebrities and generations, from Jacqueline Kennedy to Laura Bush, Marissa Mayer to Nicki Minaj. His memorial, held in November, was the equivalent of a state occasion, with speakers that included Hillary Rodham Clinton, Henry Kissinger and Michael Bloomberg. When it comes to both designers, we know will not see their like again.

而最令人心碎的告别是3月份49岁的劳伦·斯科特(L’Wren Scott)自杀，10月份82岁的纽约时装周巨擘奥斯卡·德拉伦塔去世。他们两位让时尚界陷入悲痛，不过德拉伦塔逝世的反响更为深远。德拉伦塔经常被称为午宴女士的首席设计师，但实际上他的审美影响了很多政要、名人和世家，从杰奎琳·肯尼迪(Jacqueline Kennedy)、劳拉·布什(Laura Bush)、玛丽莎·梅耶尔(Marissa Mayer)到妮琪·米娜(Nicki Minaj)。他11月份的追悼会无异于一场国事活动，发言人包括希拉里·罗德姆·克林顿(Hillary Rodham Clinton)、亨利·基辛格(Henry Kissinger)和迈克尔·布隆伯格(Michael Bloomberg)。我们知道再也不会有像他们这样的设计师了。