2014，一个折腾的时尚年

1. INFLUENCERS: IN AND OUT

1. 有影响力的人：流行与过时

In a Kardashian world, where it often seems the bigger and blingier the better (at least for the blogosphere), the debuts of Lupita Nyong’o and Amal Alamuddin as sartorial tastemakers stood out for their sheer elegance and refusal to play the over-the-top game. Rather, they proved that restraint and exquisite taste (and a refusal to pander to the common social media denominator) can have its own explosive effect.

在卡戴珊的世界里，似乎是越大、越奢华越好(至少对博客圈来说是这样)，但露皮塔·尼永奥(Lupita Nyong’o)和阿迈勒·阿拉姆丁(Amal Alamuddin)以绝对优雅、拒绝夸张脱颖而出，成为新的时尚领导者。她们证明，克制和精致品味(以及拒绝迎合社交媒体的常见标准)有它自己的爆炸性效果。

From her red caped Ralph Lauren at the Golden Globes to her “Nairobi blue” Prada gown at the Oscars, Ms. Nyong’o offered an ode to the memorable effects of saturated color and simple lines. The new Mrs. Clooney, a human rights lawyer, used her three-day Venetian wedding as a showcase of what it means to look smart, in every sense of the word. As role models for a new generation, both women demonstrated that powerful achievements and celebration of fashion can go hand in hand, but the latter looks ever so much better in the service of the former, as opposed to as an end in itself.

从金球奖上的拉夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)红色披肩礼服到奥斯卡奖上的“内毕罗蓝”普拉达(Prada)礼服，尼永奥一直在向饱和色与简单线条的醒目效果致意。新任克鲁尼夫人是一位人权律师，她通过在威尼斯的三天婚礼展现聪明美丽的涵义。作为新一代楷模，这两位女士展示出，巨大的成就和对时尚的颂扬可以并驾齐驱，不过后者在为前者服务时，比单独彰显自己要好很多。

By contrast, the ubiquitous presence of Rihanna at pretty much every single fashion event in various flesh-baring outfits started to be more yawn-inducing than exciting (proof positive that, as Graydon Carter said, “The greatest asset in the world is unavailability”). Of course, she did finish the year by being named the creative director of Puma women’s collections, which in theory could mean that 2015 will herald a more selective Rihanna-for-Puma parade, but it remains to be seen.

相比之下，蕾哈娜简直无处不在，身穿暴露身体不同部位的套装出现在几乎每一场时尚活动中，渐渐让人觉得乏味，而非兴奋(毋庸置疑，就像格雷顿·卡特 [Graydon Carter]说的，“世界上最伟大的资产是难以得到”)。当然，她的确在年终被任命为彪马(Puma)女装的创意总监，这在理论上意味着2015年我们将看到更多蕾哈娜为彪马设计的服装，不过尚待分晓。

Meanwhile, Jennifer Lawrence’s deal with Christian Dior, which requires her to wear the label at most red carpet events, took much of the joy out of watching her dress and suggested that, as a concept, the “brand ambassador” relationship, while it may work for the brand, can backfire for the ambassador. Ms. Lawrence clearly knows her own mind in her work. Wouldn’t it be nice to see her put it to work for her wardrobe?

与此同时，詹妮弗·劳伦斯(Jennifer Lawrence)与克里斯汀·迪奥的协议要求她身穿该品牌礼服出席大多数红毯活动，这夺去了观看她着装的大部分乐趣。“品牌大使”这种关系可能有利于品牌，但不利于大使。劳伦斯在工作中显然很有自己的想法。如果她能在着装上也展现自己的想法难道不好吗?