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2014,一个折腾的时尚年

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2015年01月05日

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5 Highs (and Lows) From the Year in Fashion

2014,一个折腾的时尚年

It’s been a funny, mixed-up year in fashion.

对时尚界来说,今年是有趣、混乱的一年。

Simply consider the fact that the biggest trendsetter of September’s fashion month was neither a fashion brand nor one based in the big four fashion capitals (New York, London, Milan, Paris). It was Apple, and its unveiling of the Apple watch took place in Cupertino, Calif. — though it made waves all the way to Colette, on the Rue St.-Honoré.

想想看,9月时装月中最大的领潮者既不是一个时装品牌,也不在四大时装之都(纽约、伦敦、米兰和巴黎),而是苹果公司——它在加利福尼亚州库比蒂诺发布了苹果手表,不过这股浪潮一直席卷到巴黎圣奥诺雷大街的科莱特精品店。

Or consider the fact that in June a celebrity not known for her irony got up to receive a “fashion icon” award wearing effectively nothing.

或者想想看,6月份,一个并非以讽刺闻名的名人上台接受“时尚偶像”奖时实际上什么也没穿。

Rihanna wasn’t, as it happened, implicitly making a searing Emperor’s New Clothes commentary about the prêt-à-porter universe when she accepted her prize from the Council of Fashion Designers of America in a see-through “dress” by Adam Selman, but she was creating an Instagrammable moment. As for the rest of us, we were caught between celebrating social media and bemoaning what it might mean for style.

蕾哈娜(Rihanna)身穿亚当·塞尔曼(Adam Selman)透视“连衣裙”领取美国时装设计师协会的时尚偶像奖时,并不是想用辛辣的皇帝新装暗讽成衣界,但她的确在Instagram上引起轩然大波。而我们其他人的心情则介于赞美社交媒体和哀叹它对时尚的重要意义之间。

And so it went: up and down and back and forth. During the resort shows, brands were split straight down the middle between those that opted for a mega-moment, complete with traveling collection and flown-in supermodels (Louis Vuitton, unveiling its resort collection in Monaco; Dior coming to Brooklyn), and those that refused to even allow a photo out in public until the clothes went into stores (Céline).

所以这一年就是前后左右来回折腾。在度假系列时装秀上,各大品牌的做法大相径庭:有的选择制造轰动一刻,用飞机接送超级模特展示旅行系列(路易·威登[Louis Vuitton]在摩纳哥发布度假系列;迪奥[Dior]选择在布鲁克林发布新装);有的则在服装到店前拒绝泄露哪怕一张照片(比如赛琳 [Céline])。

You might blame it on the seemingly irreconcilable standoff in Washington, one side pitted against the other, or even the unpredictable weather switcheroos from hot to cold and back again, but the oppositions were enough to give you conceptual whiplash. No wonder by the time the pre-fall collections rolled round in December, the biggest trend was a mélange of contrast print in black and white.

你可能会将这归罪于华盛顿相互对抗、似乎不可调和的局面,甚至归罪于忽冷忽热、变幻莫测的天气,但这些对立足以让你在精神上受到打击。难怪12月份早秋系列亮相时,最大的潮流是黑白混杂的对比图案。

Fashion reflects reality. The proof is in the pattern.

时尚反映现实。证据就在图案之中。

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