这里的泰国牛肉面汤已经煮了45年了

这里的泰国牛肉面汤已经煮了45年了

There's soup that's been simmering for 45 years.

汤是炖了45年的汤。

In Bangkok, customers can't get enough of the latter at Wattana Panich, a noodle soup joint in the trendy Ekkamai neighborhood, where third-generation owner Nattapong Kaweeantawong wants to clear up what he thinks is a popular misconception about his beef soup.

在曼谷时髦的伊卡迈街区，有一家名为瓦塔纳帕尼奇的面馆。在那里，第三代老板纳塔蓬卡文塔旺希望消除人们对他的牛肉汤的普遍误解。

"Lots of people think we never clean the pot," he says. "But we clean it every evening. We remove the soup from the pot, then keep a little bit simmering overnight."

他说:“很多人认为我们从来不洗锅。”“但是我们每天晚上都清洗。我们把汤从锅里倒出来，然后炖一晚上。”

It's that little bit, he says, that forms the stock of the next day's soup. So yes, at least a taste of what you put in your mouth is 45 years old and counting.

他说，这一点汤就构成了第二天汤的原料。所以，是的，至少你吃的东西已经有45年的历史了。

"Since my grandfather's time, we've never really had a set recipe about how much of each ingredient to put in," Nattapong says. "So, the person making the soup will constantly have to taste it to know what needs to be added."

纳塔蓬说:“从我祖父的时代开始，我们就从来没有一个固定的食谱，告诉我们每种配料该放多少。”“所以，做汤的人必须不断地品尝，才能知道需要添加什么。”

He says some of the ingredients include nearly a dozen Chinese herbs plus garlic, cinnamon, black pepper and cilantro root. And then there's the beef. He goes through about 150 pounds a day.

他说，其中一些成分包括近12种中草药、大蒜、肉桂、黑胡椒和香菜根。然后是牛肉。他每天消耗（的成本）大约150磅。

"To make it tender, we cook the beef for around seven hours. We put the whole thing into the pot so it absorbs all the flavors," he explains, "Then after three hours we take it out and cut it into smaller pieces, then cook it for another four hours."

“为了让牛肉变软，我们会把它煮7个小时左右。我们把所有的东西都放进锅里，让它吸收所有的味道，”他解释说，“三个小时后，我们把它拿出来，切成小块，然后再煮四个小时。”

The pot at Wattana Panich sits near the sidewalk on a busy street, the simple restaurant occupying two floors of a shophouse that the family bought decades ago. And a good thing too, Nattapong says. They couldn't afford to even rent here now.

瓦塔纳帕尼奇面馆坐落在一条繁忙街道的人行道旁，这家简单的面馆占了他们几十年前买下的一家店铺的两层。纳塔蓬说，这也是一件好事。现在他们连房租都付不起。

"When I first started in the business, my dad would make the soup and the broth and I would taste it, to understand what the perfect taste is," Nattapong says. "Nowadays, I can just look at it and know what's missing."

纳塔蓬说:“我刚开始做这个生意的时候，我爸爸会做汤和肉汤，我会品尝，以知道是最完美的味道是什么。”“现在，我只要看一眼就知道少了什么。”

The result is an aromatic blend of spices, herbs and beef. One that's been drawing repeat business since his grandfather started making the soup at the original shop down by the Praya river more than 60 years ago.

牛肉汤是香料的芳香、药草和牛肉混合。自从60多年前他的祖父开始在湄南河河边的老店做汤以来，这家店就一直吸引着回头客。

"My earliest memory coming here I was five or six, maybe," says 24-year old Indi Rakamnuaykit. He says his father has been coming here since he was 11 years old.

24岁的因迪拉卡门凯特说:“我最早的记忆来这里的时候大概是五六岁。”他说他父亲从他11岁起就一直来这里。

"The prices were super good, according to my dad, he'd say coming here with a large family would never break the bank. You would always come here because you expected top quality food and homey service, he says. "It's just nice."

“据我爸爸说，那里的价格非常实惠，他说带着一大家子人来这里是绝对不会倾家荡产的。”你总是会来这里，因为你期待高质量的食物和亲切的服务，他说。“这感觉很好。”

Though there are other items on the menu, he gets the beef noodle soup every time.

虽然菜单上还有其他菜品，但他每次都点牛肉面汤。

"You really taste the marrow and the fat," he says. "That's what makes the soup so good, the quality has never changed. And I've been coming here for a very long time."

“你真的品尝到了骨髓和脂肪，”他说。“这就是汤这么好吃的原因，质量从来没有变过。我来这里已经很久了。”

Ussanee is a first time customer. She's Thai, and runs a company that does urban food walk tours around Bangkok. She rates the soup a 10.

尤萨尼是第一个客户。她是泰国人，经营着一家公司，在曼谷市内进行美食徒步旅行。她给这道汤打了10分。

"For Asian people, we're quite familiar with fermented thing and something you age for very long, so this not bother me at all," she says. She thinks it helps give the soup its distinctive flavor.

她说:“对于亚洲人来说，我们很熟悉发酵的东西，也很熟悉陈年很久的东西，所以我一点也不介意。”她认为这有助于赋予汤独特的味道。