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选举日,希拉里的白色套装效应

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2016年11月12日

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One of the more unexpected turns in a very twisted (in all senses of the word) electoral season has been the sudden emergence of a fashion statement that should, if all goes according to plan, reach its apogee on Tuesday, Election Day.

一个反常的竞选季里出现的更出乎意料的转折之一,是一种时尚宣言的突然涌现。如果一切照计划进行,这一潮流可能会在周二大选日达到顶点。

A grass-roots movement on social media has been urging women to #WearWhiteToVote in solidarity with the American suffragists, who adopted the color as one of their signatures and fought for what has now come (at least partly) to fruition: the first woman as a major party’s candidate for president.

社交媒体上自发产生的一场运动呼吁女性 #WearWhiteToVote(穿白衣去投票),以声援女性参政论者。他们将这种颜色作为自己的标识之一,在为现在已经取得成果(至少是部分地)的事业奋斗:出现了首位以重要政党候选人的身份参加总统竞选的女性。

This is not dissimilar to the #pantsuitnation movement that emerged on Facebook a few weeks ago, in which women pledged to wear pantsuits to vote in support of that candidate, Hillary Clinton, who has famously adopted the pantsuit as her power uniform, though wear white movement is broader, and references feminist history as much as the current campaign.

这与Facebook上几周前出现的 #pantsuitnation(全民裤装)运动没什么区别——参加该运动的女性承诺穿着裤装去投票,以支持将裤装当作彰显自己力量的服装的总统候选人希拉里·克林顿(Hillary Clinton)——只不过穿白衣运动涉及的范围更广,而且和当前的竞选一样,较多涉及女权主义的历史。

On Facebook, where there is a #WearWhiteToVote public page, and on Twitter, women are widely pledging their support.

不管是在Facebook还是Twitter上,女性都在普遍做出表示支持的承诺。Facebook上还有一个满是 #WearWhiteToVote 标签的公共页面。

Other women have already put their words into action, with one 102-year-old combining both movements by wearing a white pantsuit to cast an early vote in Arizona. Likewise, Ellen Cohen, the mayor pro tem of Houston, told the Boston Globe that she and her 101-year-old mother would wear white to vote.

还有一些女性已经付诸行动。在亚利桑那州,有一位102岁的老人将两场运动合二为一,穿着白色裤装去提前投票。休斯顿代理市长艾伦·科恩(Ellen Cohen)也向《波斯顿环球报》(Boston Globe)表示,她和她101岁的母亲将穿着白色服装去投票。

Though the discussion around white and the suffragists began in the summer when Mrs. Clinton wore an ivory Ralph Lauren pantsuit to accept her nomination at the Democratic National Convention, both movements really coalesced after her appearance in another white Ralph Lauren pantsuit — with a slightly raised collar and off-center buttons that sparked comparisons to Star Trek and supreme beings — in the third presidential debate in October. Since then the white suit, either as a whole or simply as a white garment, has come to symbolize something greater than merely a piece of clothing.

尽管有关白色服装和裤装的讨论是从今年夏天才开始——当时克林顿穿了一套象牙色的拉夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)裤装,在民主党全国大会上接受提名——但是在她穿着另一套白色拉夫·劳伦裤装在今年10月举行的第三场总统辩论上亮相后,两场运动实际上已经合二为一。后一套服装有小立领和斜裁的扣子,引得人们将之与《星际迷航》(Star Trek)中的人物和拥有至高无上力量的人作比。自那之后,白色服装——不管是整套,还是只有一件白色上衣——开始象征更大的东西,而不只是一件衣服。

“I was watching the debate with a group of friends, and we all said, spontaneously, ‘That’s a gorgeous suit — I want that suit,’ ” said Marcia Greenberger, co-president of the National Women’s Law Center in Washington.

“我跟一群朋友正在观看总统辩论,我们全都不由自主地说,‘那套衣服真不错——我想要一套’,”位于华盛顿的全国女性法律中心的联席主席马西娅·格林伯格(Marcia Greenberger)说。

Debra Katz, a founding partner of the civil rights law firm Katz, Marshall & Banks, was one of them. “She looked so powerful and smashing,” Ms. Katz said of Mrs. Clinton, “and there was this sense she was speaking for all of us.”

德布拉·卡茨(Debra Katz)就是其中之一,她是主要代理民权案件的律师事务所卡茨-马歇尔-班克斯(Katz, Marshall & Banks)的一位创始合伙人。“她看起来很有力量,很了不起,”卡茨说到克林顿,“还有一种她在代表我们所有人讲话的感觉。”

Ms. Greenberger said she and her friends had started talking about how they should all wear white to a fund-raising dinner for the law center as a “sign of solidarity,” and it spiraled from there.

格林伯格表示,她和朋友开始谈论她们应该都穿白色的衣服去参加法律中心举办的一场筹款晚宴,“以示团结,”一切就从这里衍生开来。

The only hitch: No one could get the original Ralph Lauren design, because it had been custom-made for Mrs. Clinton.

唯一的难题是:没人能拿到拉夫·劳伦的原款,因为那是给克林顿量身定制的。

“I went on the Ralph Lauren website hours ago and can’t find it anywhere!” wrote one unhappy Facebook poster in a private chat.

“几小时前,我到拉夫·劳伦网站上找,怎么也找不到它!”一位不太开心的Facebook用户在私人聊天中写道。

Another responded: “Let me know what you come up with — maybe a discount if we buy in bulk.”

另一位回应:“如果你想到什么办法,告诉我一声——如果我们一起买,也许有折扣。”

Though a brand spokesman acknowledged “there has been a lot of interest and excitement around her look,” he would not say anything more about whether there were plans to commercialize the suit. That has not, however, deterred the women determined to wear white to honor those who came before.

尽管一位品牌发言人承认“她那套服装让人们很激动,引发了很大的兴趣”,但他不愿意多讲,没有透露公司是否计划将它商业化。然而,这并没有打消女士们穿白色服装向先行者致敬的决心。

“It started as fun and moved into having all this meaning, both historic and cultural,” said Lisa J. Banks, Ms. Katz’s law partner and a co-founder of their firm.

“刚开始只是好玩,后来它开始具有许多的意义,不管是历史的还是文化的,”卡茨所在律所的联合创始人兼合伙人莉萨·J·班克斯(Lisa J. Banks)说。

She is not the only one who thinks so.

她不是唯一一个这么想的人。

Since the Democratic National Convention, “white pantsuits” have become the most-searched color of pantsuit according to data from Lyst, the global e-commerce platform that acts as a centralized shopping bag for thousands of retailers. Searches for white pantsuits are now 7 percent more prevalent than searches for black pantsuits which, before the convention, were the most-searched color. (Eighty percent of the searches originated in the United States.)

全球电子商务平台Lyst的数据显示,自民主党全国大会召开以来,“白色裤装”成为搜索次数最多的裤装颜色。该平台是为数以千计的零售商集中采购的地方。白裤装的搜索次数目前比黑裤装的多了7%,而在大会召开之前,黑色是被搜索最多的裤装颜色。(其中80%的搜索都源自美国。)

Katherine Ormerod, Lyst’s editorial director, said, “The pantsuit has had a massive resurgence in interest with a 460 percent uplift since January 2016. The interest in white pantsuits in particular has certainly confounded expectations — especially as we usually see a seasonal dip for white color ways across every category.’’

Lyst的编辑部主任凯瑟琳·奥默罗德(Katherine Ormerod)表示,“人们对裤装的兴趣大增,自2016年1月至今已经上涨460%。特别是对白色裤装的兴趣,无疑超出了预期——尤其考虑到以往在这个时期,我们通常会看到人们对各个类别的白色服装的购买欲望出现季节性的下降。”

There is precedent for this kind of desire and action, in any case. In 1978 when thousands of women marched on Washington in support of the Equal Rights Amendment, they did so led by Gloria Steinem and Betty Friedan, with the majority of the marchers wearing white. Ms. Greenberger noted that the law center often suggests that women wear white at public demonstrations.

无论如何,这类渴望和行动是有先例的。1978年,数千名女性曾在格洛丽亚·斯泰纳姆(Gloria Steinem)和贝蒂·弗里丹(Betty Friedan)的带领下,走上华盛顿街头,支持平权修正案(Equal Rights Amendment),其中大多数都穿着白色服装。格林伯格也提到,法律中心常常建议女性在公开的示威游行活动中穿白色服装。

The point is, the women said, that clothing is a symbol that is universally accessible, allowing anyone who can dig up a garment (“Once all I had was white puffer jacket, but that was fine,” Ms. Greenberger said.) to express their commitment and connection to a story greater than their own.

这些女性表示,重点是服装是一种四海通用的象征,可以让任何一个能找出这样一件衣服的人(“曾经我只有一件白色的羽绒夹克,但那不是问题,”格林伯格说。)表达自己的决心,展现她们和一些更广阔的事物的联系。

As a result, Tuesday may just be the beginning. Ms. Banks said she and her friends planned to find white suits to wear to the inauguration if Mrs. Clinton is elected. They are hoping that Ralph Lauren might provide some options, but if not, well, given the demand, there is little doubt someone else will.

因此,周二或许只是一个开始。班克斯表示,如果克林顿当选总统,她和朋友们打算找来白色的套装,穿着去观看她的就职仪式。她们希望拉夫·劳伦可以提供一些选择,如果没有,考虑到有这么大的需求,肯定会有别的品牌会提供。

“I’ve never actually bought a piece of clothing specifically for an inauguration,” Ms. Katz said. “I went to Obama’s second inauguration, but was mostly concerned with not being cold. This is a new thing.”

“我从来没有为一场就职仪式特地买过什么衣服,”卡茨说。“我参加过奥巴马的第二次就职仪式,但我当时主要关心怎么不让自己受冻。这对我来说是新的体验。”

And then we will see if the area in front of the west side of the Capitol is a sea of white garments once again.

接下来,我们会见证国会大厦西侧前方的区域是否会再度成为白衣的海洋。
 


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