哈德逊高地，买得起的曼哈顿社区

Affordable Manhattan in Hudson Heights

哈德逊高地，买得起的曼哈顿社区

For years, those who moved to the Hudson Heights section of Washington Heights savored the fact that apartments could be bought at discounts as steep as the neighborhood’s hills, compared with much of the rest of Manhattan. And to find that affordable home, one didn’t have to give up good subway service — or, some joked, a 212 area code — in the process.

这些年来，凡是搬入华盛顿高地(Washington Heights)，居住在该地区的哈德逊高地(Hudson Heights)一带的人，都津津乐道于这样一个事实，相较于曼哈顿的其它地方，这里的公寓在购买时所打的折扣，简直可以比拟该社区中那些山坡的陡峭程度了。而且，你大可不必为了找到那种经济实惠的住宅，就放弃便捷的地铁设施，或被有的人戏称为“212电话区号”的好地段。

Harder to swallow for some, though, was that the neighborhood lacked amenities so many other parts of the borough took for granted: good restaurants, well-stocked groceries and even a place for a latte.

然而，令一些人比较难以接受的是，这个社区缺少该大区内其它地方常见的一些便利设施：品质优良的餐厅、货架玲琅满目的杂货店，就连喝杯拿铁咖啡的地方都没有。

This section of Washington Heights offers more affordable housing than many other parts of Manhattan.

华盛顿高地内的这片区域，比曼哈顿其它地区的保障房项目都要多。

“Nothing was here,” said Mary Alice O’Connor, a 34-year resident transplanted from SoHo, referring to West 181st Street, a main commercial strip. “There was one old bar, and one old florist, and the rest was bodegas or closed.”

“这里什么都没有，”从苏豪区(SoHo)搬来的一位居民、今年34岁的玛丽·艾丽丝·奥康纳(Mary Alice O’Connor)说，她指的是这里主要的商业地带西181街。“有一间老酒吧和一间老花店，其它的都是些卖酒的店，要么就已经关门歇业了。”

Ms. O’Connor, who teaches English and job skills to immigrants and paid $70,000 for a two-bedroom with a formal dining room, often had to stock up by driving to a Fairway Market in Harlem.

奥康纳的工作是培训外来移民的工作技能、并教他们说英语。她花7万美元(约合人民币43万元)买下了这里一套带一间正式餐厅的两居室公寓。她常常得开车去哈莱姆区(Harlem)的富威超市(Fairway Market)买东西。

But the ridgetop area between Broadway and the Hudson River may be starting to look like elsewhere. West 181st has steadily filled in those empty storefronts over the years with what might be called modern-day signifiers of gentrification, like a Pilates studio, a bar that fills growler jugs with craft beer, and of course, a Starbucks. And next summer, the long-dingy George Washington Bridge Bus Station, after years of delays, is scheduled to complete a renovation that will include more than 100,000 new square feet of shops.

但是，这片介于百老汇(Broadway)与哈德逊河(Hudson River)之间的隆起地带，其面貌或许正在同其它地方变得越来越像。这些年来，西181街的那些空置店面已经在稳步填充了。那些新开张的地方，都堪称 “士绅化”进程的当代标志，比如一家普拉提健身馆、一家用棕色啤酒罐(growler jugs)装满精酿啤酒的酒吧，当然了，还有一家星巴克。至于那座长期脏乱差、却迟迟得不到治理的乔治·华盛顿大桥公交车站(George Washington Bridge Bus Station)，到明年夏天，它的翻修工程将如期竣工。届时，修葺一新的车站可以容纳超过10万平方英尺(约合9290平方米)的商铺面积。

“It’s a good thing; it’s nice to have some variety,” said Craig Tessler, an administrative law judge, who last spring traded a rent-regulated one-bedroom in Chelsea for a prewar two-bedroom two-bath co-op in Hudson Heights. The unit, which has Art Deco details like a sunken living room, cost $540,000.

“这是件好事;有各种各样的商铺很不错，”一位行政法法官克雷格·特斯勒(Craig Tessler)说，今年春天，他用切尔西区(Chelsea)的一套有租金管控的一居室公寓，换了哈德逊高地的一套两卧两卫的战前合作公寓。这套公寓花了他54万美元(约合人民币330万元)，具有装饰派艺术风格(Art Deco)的细节，比如下沉式客厅。

The area lacks good Chinese restaurants, he says, and he can no longer walk to Broadway theaters like he did downtown. But he enjoys the pasta at Saggio, on West 181st, he said.

这里缺少品质优良的中餐厅，他说，而且他再也不能像以前住在下城区那样，步行至百老汇剧院了。但他喜欢西181街Saggio餐厅里的意大利面，他说。

Being near Manhattan’s northern tip also allows quick escapes, which Mr. Tessler likes because he drives to his house in Sullivan County on weekends. When he lived in Chelsea, it could take him an hour to make it out of the city, he said.

住在靠近曼哈顿最北边的地方，还可以迅速逃离都市生活，特斯勒很喜欢这样，因为每逢周末，他都会开车回到自己在沙利文县(Sullivan County)的房子。住在切尔西时，他得花一个小时才能开出市区，他说。

Some who move to Hudson Heights say they practically stumbled upon it, on a stroll through the area; the shared secret of the Brigadoon-like enclave explains why its community can seem so tightly knit, residents say.

有些搬入哈德逊高地的人说，他们其实是在散步经过此地时，偶然发现这里的;居民们都说，这片飞地就像布里加多岛(Brigadoon，哈佛大学研究者在《虚拟人生》游戏中建造的一座世外桃源，旨在研究虚拟环境对心理疾病患者的治疗作用——译注)一样，这个公开的秘密就解释了这个社区为何看起来如此团结。

“People talk to each other up here, and they do things together,” said Hikari Hathaway, an agent with Coldwell Banker Bellmarc who moved 27 years ago from a one-bedroom rental on the Lower East Side. Today, she lives in a four-bedroom, which she achieved by combining adjacent units, as apartments with more than two bedrooms are rare.

“这里的人相互聊天，一起做事，” Coldwell Banker Bellmarc地产公司的一位经纪人希加里·海瑟薇(Hikari Hathaway)说。她27年前从下东区的一套一居室租赁公寓中搬到这里。如今，她住在一套四居室公寓中，为此她打通了两个相邻的单元，因为超过两间卧室的公寓在这里并不多见。

Whatever explains that camaraderie, it seemed evident on a recent afternoon, at a tag sale along Cabrini Boulevard outside the Castle Village co-op, as sellers of books, stuffed animals and glass bowls chatted amiably with passers-by, and one another.

那样一团和气的氛围，不管因何而生，都可以一目了然地看出来，尤其是几天前的下午，在卡斯尔村(Castle Village)合作公寓楼外、沿卡布里尼大道(Cabrini Boulevard)一字排开的二手市场中，你可以看见那些卖书的、卖毛绒玩具的和卖玻璃碗的人，他们不但同路过的人相谈甚欢，而且彼此之间也是如此。

“It’s a beautiful environment,” Ms. Hathaway said.

“这是个美好的氛围。”海瑟薇说。

What You’ll Find

当地概况

The name Hudson Heights wasn’t coined until 1993, when property owners banded together to spruce up streets and help bring in better quality stores, said Elizabeth Lorris Ritter, a founder of the Hudson Heights Owners Coalition, and its current president.

“哈德逊高地”这个名称，直到1933年才得以正式确定。当时的业主们团结一致，把街道打扮得整齐漂亮，因而吸引来了一些高档商店，哈德逊高地业主联盟(Hudson Heights Owners Coalition)的创建者之一、现任主席伊丽莎白·洛里斯·里特尔(Elizabeth Lorris Ritter)说。

“We knew the name would be used by others, so we wanted to be thoughtful in our choices,” she said, adding that she occasionally uses Washington Heights, as other residents do.

“我们知道，这个名字将被人们用起来，所以想慎重选择，”说完她又补充道，她偶尔也会像其他居民们那样，说“华盛顿高地”。

The neighborhood stretches from Fort Tryon Park on the north to J. Hood Wright Park, Ms. Ritter said, based on the addresses of the coalition’s 35 member buildings. Its population is around 29,000, with the largest groups being white non-Hispanic residents, at 44 percent, and those of Hispanic origin, at 43 percent, according to 2010 census records. Buildings are almost uniformly prewar, many with six stories and decorations like vases and garlands on their facades.

该社区从北部的翠亨堡公园(Fort Tryon Park)一直延伸到J·胡德·赖特公园(J. Hood Wright Park)，里特尔说，该区域里容纳了其联盟下的35栋成员楼。根据2010年的人口普查记录，该社区的人口数量约为2.9万，其中最大的群落是非西班牙裔的白人居民，占44%;而西班牙裔的居民占43%。这里的建筑物几乎全是整齐划一的战前公寓楼，许多楼房高达六层，建筑立面上有花瓶与花环之类的装饰。

What You’ll Pay

当地房产

A search of StreetEasy.com earlier this month found 51 apartments for sale, at an average list price of $516,000. Units ranged from a studio in Lafayette Gardens, a postwar co-op by the George Washington Bridge, at $175,000, to a three-bedroom two-and-a-half-bath apartment in a prewar co-op on West 181st Street, which was $1.38 million. Co-ops predominate; condos are few. According to StreetEasy, in 2013, 244 co-ops sold in Hudson Heights, at an average price of $397,000, compared with 166 in 2012, at an average of $388,000. At the same time, more expensive listings emerged, with buyers from the Upper West Side and other neighborhoods sometimes paying more than $1 million for a two-bedroom, said Francisco Menendez, an agent with Halstead Property and a 14-year resident. “For them, it is almost a bargain,” he said.

StreetEasy网站在本月初的一次搜索中显示，该社区有51套公寓在售，均价为51.6万美元(约合人民币316万元)。在售公寓的房型，从华盛顿大桥附近的一栋战后合作公寓楼拉斐特花园(Lafayette Gardens)内、售价17.5万美元(约合人民币107万元)的一套单间公寓，到西181街一栋战前合作公寓楼中售价138万美元(约合人民币844 万元)的一套带三卧室、两间半浴室的公寓不等。合作公寓在其中占了绝大多数，而共管公寓则非常少。根据StreetEasy网站的数据，2013年哈德逊高地售出了244套合作公寓，均价为39.7万美元(约合人民币243万元);相比之下，2012年当地售出公寓数为166套，均价38.8万美元(约合人民币237万元)。同时，也浮现出更多高价房源。那些来自上西区和其它社区的买家，有时会不惜花费一百多万美元，购置一套两居室公寓，霍尔斯泰德地产公司(Halstead Property)的一位经纪人、同时也是一名在当地住了14年的居民弗朗西斯科·梅内德斯(Francisco Menendez)说，“对他们而言，这样一笔交易算得上很实惠了。”他说。

Mr. Menendez said that one-bedrooms in rental buildings go for $1,700 to $2,000 a month, or a bit more if they are sublets in co-ops. Studios are about $1,400, he said; two-bedrooms, $3,000.

梅内德斯还说，租赁公寓楼中的一居室公寓，每月租金为1700美元(约合人民币10393元)至2000美元(约合人民币12227元);如果遇上合作公寓中的转租房源，还会更高一些。这里单间公寓的租金约为1400美元(约合人民币8559元)，他说，两居室公寓则为3000美元(约合人民币 18340元)。

What to Do

休闲设施

Through the gate at Fort Tryon Park, a path shaded by elms arcs along the three-acre Heather Garden. From the spot, which was designed by the sons of Frederick Law Olmsted, one of the designers of Central Park, the Palisades cliffs of New Jersey can be glimpsed. The park’s gem is the Cloisters Museum and Gardens, where the Metropolitan Museum of Art shows off its medieval European collection.

穿过翠亨堡公园的大门，有一条小路被遮挡在3英亩(约合1.2公顷)的石楠花园(Heather Garden)边、那些榆树的拱形树枝下。该公园是由曾经设计过中央公园的弗雷德里克·劳·奥姆斯特德(Frederick Law Olmsted)的儿子们设计的。从这个位置可以一眼望见新泽西州的Palisades峭壁。这座公园的精华所在，是那座修道院博物馆及花园 (Cloisters Museum and Gardens)，大都会艺术博物馆(Metropolitan Museum of Art)在其中陈列了一些中世纪欧洲的藏品。

The Cabrini Repertory Theater, on Fort Washington Avenue, hosts three playwright festivals a year. Le Cheile, the three-year-old Irish restaurant and bar that fills those growlers — pronounced “le KAY-la,” which means “together” in Gaelic — occasionally hosts Irish music in its multilevel space.

在华盛顿堡大道(Fort Washington Avenue)上的卡布里尼保留剧目戏院(Cabrini Repertory Theater)，一年举办三场编剧盛会。一家名为Le Cheile、已营业三年的餐厅及酒吧，里面总是坐满大声叫嚷的顾客，其店名的读音是“le KAY-la”，即盖尔语里“在一起”的意思。他们偶尔会在其高达数层的场地中，举办爱尔兰音乐会。

Frank’s Market, a gourmet grocery on West 187th, another lively retail drag, carries everything from sushi to apples to organic cereal. Broadway is a hodgepodge of fast-food chains, tiny markets and the occasional drugstore; the neon-bright signage can seem kaleidoscopic.

另一处十分吸引人的零售市场，是位于西187街的美食杂货店Frank’s Market，其中陈列着从寿司到苹果再到有机谷物之类的一切食品。而百老汇大道一带，则汇集了许多快餐连锁店、小超市及临时药店;那里的霓虹灯招牌就像万花筒一样。

Tenants announced for the renovated bus station, which fronts on several streets, so far include Marshalls, a Fine Fare Supermarket, a Gap outlet, Blink Fitness and a Buffalo Wild Wings Grill and Bar, said Stephen McBride, a principal with SJM Partners, part of the development team. The stores are scheduled to open by next summer, he said.

那座修葺一新的公交车站面对着好几条街道，已经公布了它的一些承租商，其中包括马歇尔百货公司(Marshalls)、Fine Fare超市、Gap outlet服装店、Blink健身馆，以及Buffalo Wild Wings Grill and Bar烧烤酒吧，该项目开发团队的成员、SJM Partners地产公司的一位主管斯蒂芬·麦克布莱德(Stephen McBride)说。

The station will also be home to mom-and-pops like Café Buunni, a tiny coffee shop already on Pinehurst Avenue. The doorway of its current location was recently jammed with ads, for tutors, daily meditation sessions and a “birth stories” event at Bread and Yoga in Inwood.

这座公交车站里还会入驻一些夫妻店，比如已经在松林大道(Pinehurst Avenue)上开业的一家小咖啡馆Café Buunni。最近一段时间，这座车站原有的大门口已经贴满了广告，有提供家教的，有上禅修课的，还有因伍德区(Inwood)“面包与瑜伽” (Bread and Yoga)养生馆的一项活动，名为“讲述你出生的故事”。

The Schools

当地学校

Parents rave about how the cream-brick Public School/Intermediate School 187 is the rare city school that combines kindergarten through eighth grade under one roof. On the 2013 state exams, 43 percent of its third-graders met standards in English, versus 28 percent citywide. In math, 46 percent met standards, versus 33 percent citywide. The school, with about 770 students, received an A on its most recent report card.

家长们都夸赞那座奶白色砖墙的公立学校187中学(Public School/Intermediate School 187)，如何称得上是这座城市当中不多见的一所、结合了从幼儿园到八年级教育的学校。在2013年的全州统考中，该校三年级学生有43%的英语课达标，而全市的达标率为28%;数学课有46%的学生达标，而全市为33%。这所容纳了大约770名学生的中学，在最近的考评中得了一个A。

For high school, a close-by option is City College Academy of the Arts, on Broadway near Inwood. SAT averages there in 2013 were 409 in reading, 442 math and 407 writing, versus 437, 463 and 433 citywide. It also got an A.

至于高中，一个就近的选择是城市学院艺术高中(City College Academy of the Arts)，这所学校位于百老汇大道，靠近因伍德区。该校2013年的SAT平均成绩为：阅读409分，数学442分，写作407分;而全市的平均分为 437、463和433。这所学校也得了一个A。