设计师创造了新一代的天然面料

设计师创造了新一代的天然面料

Ultramarathon runner Steve Tidball remembers the extreme events that ignited his interest in sourcing simple, natural materials for clothing.

超级马拉松选手斯蒂夫·蒂博尔记得那些激发了他对寻找简单、天然材料来制作衣服的兴趣的极端事件。

"My brother and I used to race around the world. He was racing through the Amazon jungle, and it was a seven-day ultramarathon. (After the) race, everyone's clothes are covered in blood (and) ants," he said.

“我哥哥和我曾经环游世界。他在亚马逊丛林中奔跑，这是一场为期7天的超级马拉松。他说:“比赛结束后，每个人的衣服上都沾满了鲜血和蚂蚁。”

"At the end, a whole bunch of the people burned all of their clothes in the jungle."

“最后，一群人在丛林里烧掉了他们所有的衣服。”

The fire released a huge cloud of smoke, thick with black carbon and noxious chemicals. "I remember he came back and said this is one of the most insane things he's ever seen," Tidball recalled.

大火释放出巨大的烟雾，浓烟中含有大量的黑碳和有毒化学物质。“我记得他回来后说，这是他见过的最疯狂的事情之一，”蒂博尔回忆说。

Tidball's twin brother Nick then asked what seemed to be a simple question: "Couldn't we have just buried them?"

蒂博尔的双胞胎兄弟尼克问了一个看起来很简单的问题:“我们就不能把他们埋了吗?”

This question took the brothers on a ten-year search for a fabric that biodegrades safely and completely. It inspired them to create the clothing company Vollebak, which makes some of the world's most technologically-advanced fabrics, and uses cutting-edge materials like graphene (Two scientists who studied its characteristics won Nobel prizes for their work), alongside natural fibers.

为了解决这个问题，兄弟俩花了十年时间寻找一种安全、完全可生物降解的面料。这激发了他们创建服装公司Vollebak的灵感。这家公司生产一些世界上技术最先进的面料，使用石墨烯(两位研究其特性的科学家因此获得了诺贝尔奖)等尖端材料，以及天然纤维。

The Tidballs' decade-long search for a biodegradable T-shirt.

蒂博尔花了十年时间寻找一款可生物降解的T恤。

Man-made fabrics have spread pollution to the ends of the Earth, with microplastics turning up in oceans and Arctic sea ice, while chemicals from garment production like chlorine and arsenic have contaminated drinking water.

人造面料将污染扩散到地球的各个角落，海洋和北极海冰中出现了塑料微粒，而服装生产中的氯和砷等化学物质污染了饮用水。

From 2000 to 2015, global clothes production doubled, according to a reportby the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. This rise was partly due to growing wealth and the popularity of "fast fashion," which encourages a quick turnover of styles to boost sales. Most unwanted clothes ended up burned or in a landfill -- the equivalent of one full garbage truck every second, the report said.

根据艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会的一份报告，从2000年到2015年，全球服装产量翻了一番。这种增长的部分原因是财富的增长和“快时尚”的流行，这就鼓励了款式的快速更换以促进销售。报告称，大多数不需要的衣服最终都被烧掉或扔进了垃圾填埋场——相当于每秒一辆满载垃圾的垃圾车。

The more clothes we produce with synthetic fabrics -- which now account for 60% of clothing worldwide, according to Greenpeace -- the more microfibers end up in laundry wastewater and the vast landfill sites where almost 70% of clothing and footwear in the US eventually end up.

我们用合成纤维生产的衣服越多——据绿色和平组织统计，合成纤维目前占全球服装的60%——流入洗衣废水和巨大的垃圾填埋场的超细纤维就越多，美国近70%的服装和鞋类最终都会流入垃圾填埋场。

This opens the door for traditional, biodegradable materials like linen and wool, to return as eco-friendly materials of choice. But sustainable designers are looking to minimize the environmental impact in the production of such materials.

这就为亚麻和羊毛等可降解的传统材料作为环保材料的选择打开了大门。但是可持续发展的设计师正在寻求在生产这种材料时尽量减少对环境的影响。

They are innovating production processes and finished materials to create a new generation of natural fabrics.

他们正在创新生产工艺和成品材料，以创造新一代的天然面料。

Wool sweater

羊毛衫

Vollebak’s “plant and algae” T-shirt is soft, light and strong, and if you bury it in the ground, it will turn to compost within 12 weeks, the company claims.

Vollebak公司声称，他们的“植物和藻类”T恤柔软、轻盈、结实，如果你把它埋在地下，它会在12周内变成堆肥。

Wool's curly, hollow fibers naturally insulate. Vollebak spins it into a fine material to ensure it's lightweight and breathable. The hoodie is designed to be worn in four different ways to store heat or combat the cold.

羊毛的卷曲中空纤维具有天然的绝缘性。Vollebak服装公司将其纺织成一种优良的材料，以确保它的轻便和透气。这种连帽衫有四种不同的穿着方式，可以储存热量或抵御寒冷。