“可见修补”是对时尚产业的反叛
“可见修补”是对时尚产业的反叛
My first experience with "visible mending" was when I dropped off a bag of my children's worn-out jeans to a local seamstress and she returned them with brightly colored, patterned patches on all the knees, their lives miraculously extended by several more years. Both my kids and I loved those pants, so unique and impossible to buy, thanks to their handmade upgrades.
我对“看得见的缝补”的第一次体验是，我把孩子们穿的破牛仔裤交给当地的女裁缝，她把那些颜色鲜艳、有图案的补丁还给了我，孩子们的寿命奇迹般地又延长了好几年。我和我的孩子都喜欢这条裤子，因为它们是手工升级的，所以很独特，买不到。
Visible mending (VM) is different from traditional mending in that it makes the repair a focal point, rather than blending it into the original garment. There are many reasons for this, from drawing attention to the fact that a garment's lifespan has been prolonged and challenging the notion that secondhand clothes are only worn by the poor, to making a statement about fast fashion's reputation for disintegration or simply adding a personalized touch.
可见缝补(VM)与传统缝补不同，它使缝补成为焦点，而不是将缝补与原衣服混在一起。造成这种现象的原因有很多，从让人们注意到一件衣服的寿命延长了，挑战了只有穷人才穿二手衣服的观念，到对快时尚瓦解的名声发表声明，或者只是增加了一种个性化的感觉。
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Kate Sekules is a well-known advocate for visible mending. The British-born, Brooklyn-based writer, clothes historian, and mending instructor has a new book coming out in September called "MEND! A Refashioning Manual and Manifesto" (Penguin Random House, 2020). It is a call to action for clothes lovers of all skill levels to take needle and thread to their beloved garments. She reassures readers that anyone can do it.
凯特·塞克勒斯是著名的可视修补倡导者。这位生于英国、住在布鲁克林的作家、服装历史学家和缝补教师的新书《缝补!》将于9月出版。一本重塑手册和宣言”(企鹅兰登书屋，2020年)。这是对所有技术水平的服装爱好者的行动呼吁，把针线和他们心爱的衣服。她向读者保证，任何人都可以做到。
Sekules spends the first several chapters explaining why practicing visible mending matters so much. She writes at length about the current fashion industry, and how notoriously destructive it is, from the vast quantities of textile and plastic waste and toxic runoff poisoning rivers around the world, to the horrific conditions in which garment workers work. She has little time or patience for corporate social responsibility (CSR) departments claiming they're taking action for human rights and the climate.
塞克勒斯用前几章解释了为什么练习可见修补如此重要。她详细描写了当前的时尚产业，以及它的破坏性是多么臭名昭著，从世界各地大量的纺织和塑料废料和有毒径流污染河流，到制衣工人可怕的工作环境。对于企业社会责任(CSR)部门声称他们正在为人权和气候采取行动，她没有时间和耐心。
So, rather than wait around for the Big Guys to clean up their acts, we individuals can effect tiny yet meaningful changes by picking up our needles and thread and wearing our clothes for longer.
因此，与其坐等大家伙收拾残局，我们个人可以通过捡起针线、穿更长时间的衣服来实现微小而有意义的改变。
Sekules' book offers step-by-step instructions for assembling a mending kit and learning basic stitches, as well as techniques for dealing with various garment-related problems. She explains how to make an underpatch, a sort of reverse appliqué; how to ring a hole with eyelet stitch or a looser porthole; how to cover a hole or stain with a pocket; how to add descriptive words or "statemends" to a garment, drawing attention to its flaws; and how to add decorative "embellishmends". Perhaps most amusing is the Greasytee fix, in which Sekules stitches circles around grease stains on her t-shirts. Similar is Paintypants, when she covers tiny splotches of paint with colored thread, using a rainbow effect.
塞克勒斯的书提供了如何组装修补工具包和学习基本针脚的步骤指导，以及处理各种服装相关问题的技巧。她解释了如何做下补，一种反向贴花;如何用网眼针或更宽松的舷窗圈孔;如何用口袋盖住洞或污渍;如何在一件衣服上添加描述性词语或“陈述词”，以引起人们对其缺陷的注意;以及如何添加装饰性的“修饰修补”。也许最有趣的是Greasytee的固定，Sekules在她t恤上的油渍上缝上一圈。类似的是颜料，当她用彩色线覆盖小斑点的颜料，使用彩虹的效果。
As someone who does not know how to sew at all, I tend to shy away from any mending projects (hence the seamstress to whom I deliver damaged items for repair). But Sekules' book does a remarkable job at making me think I actually could do this myself – and even want to try. A needle is less daunting than a sewing machine, and the diagrams in the book are so clear and simple that I am inspired to tackle my next holey t-shirt.
作为一个完全不懂缝纫的人，我倾向于回避任何修补项目(因此我把损坏的东西交给女裁缝修理)。但是塞克勒斯的书让我觉得我自己也能做到——甚至想尝试一下。缝衣针没有缝纫机那么可怕，书中的图表是如此的清晰和简单，以至于我有灵感去处理我的下一件有洞的t恤。
