穿着的骄傲:百年中国时尚正在回归

穿着的骄傲:百年中国时尚正在回归

When Zhang Lingshan was a child, she would watch the Chinese period drama "Palace" on television, entranced by the characters' ancient clothing. The costumes were colorful and regal, long gowns embroidered with lotus flowers and dragons, topped with intricate headpieces.

当张玲珊是个孩子的时候，她会在电视上看中国古装剧《宫》，被剧中人物的古装迷住了。服装五彩缤纷，富丽堂皇，长袍上绣着莲花和龙，上面戴着复杂的头饰。

She didn't know what these beautiful clothes were called -- only that they were from some distant past.

她不知道这些漂亮的衣服叫什么名字——只知道它们来自遥远的过去。

"When I saw it, I really liked it," she said. "They looked fairy-like, dreamy. I was completely drawn by the beauty of these clothes, and then eventually came to understand the culture of Hanfu, and I liked it more and more."

“当我看到它的时候，我真的很喜欢，”她说。“她们看起来像仙女，像梦幻一般。我完全被这些衣服的美所吸引，然后逐渐了解了汉服文化，我越来越喜欢它。”

Now aged 19 and living in Beijing, Zhang is a member of China's growing "Hanfu" movement -- a renaissance of the ancient clothing traditionally worn by ethnic-majority Han Chinese before the Qing dynasty. The movement, which started in the early 2000s as a fringe subculture on online forums and websites, has now stepped out onto the streets.

现年19岁的张生活在北京，她是中国正在兴起的“汉服”运动的一员。“汉服”是指清朝以前汉族的传统服饰。这场运动始于21世纪初，是在线论坛和网站上的一种边缘亚文化，现在已经走上街头。

Though it's still not mainstream, if you walk through major cities you may see a fan dressed in the sweeping robes, crossed collars and wide sleeves.

虽然这还不是主流，但如果你走在大城市里，你可能会看到一个粉丝穿着拖地的长裙，有着交叉衣领和宽袖子。

There are Hanfu shops, designers and researchers, and even photography studios that rent out accessories and outfits.

这里有汉服店、设计师和研究人员，甚至还有出租配饰和服装的摄影工作室。

Hanfu outfits cost anywhere from $30 to a few thousand dollars, depending on the quality. Sales have soared in recent years -- the Hanfu industry's total market value is estimated to be worth 1.09 billion yuan (about $154 million), according to state-run media China Daily.

根据质量的不同，汉服的价格从30美元到几千美元不等。据官方媒体《中国日报》报道，近年来汉服销售额飙升，汉服行业的总市值估计为人民币10.9亿元(约合1.54亿美元)。

Tight-knit Hanfu communities and university clubs often meet up for themed activities like folk games or costume showings. Zhang and her friends sometimes visit places with ancient architecture, like Beijing's Forbidden City, where emperors once resided, to take photos in costume and post them on social media.

组织紧密的汉服社区和大学社团经常聚会，参加民间游戏或服装展示等主题活动。张和她的朋友们有时会去一些有古代建筑的地方，比如北京的故宫，那里曾经是皇帝居住的地方，她们会拍一些穿着古装的照片，然后发布到社交媒体上。

Chen Zhenbing, chairman of the China Hanfu Association, fell in love with the clothing when he was 16 and handmade his first Hanfu suit. He recalled holding a 2005 Hanfu event that only attracted about 50 attendees -- five years later, a similar event drew up to 500 people, he said.

中国汉服协会主席陈振兵16岁时爱上了汉服，并制作了自己的第一套汉服。他回忆起2005年举办的一场汉服活动只吸引了大约50人参加，他说，五年后，一场类似的活动吸引了500人。

Nowadays, Hanfu events around the country can draw upwards of a thousand attendees.

如今，全国各地的汉服活动可以吸引上千人参加。

He and many others see Hanfu as a way to celebrate Chinese culture and improve national self-esteem.

他和其他许多人将汉服视为颂扬中国文化、提高民族自尊的一种方式。