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你扔掉了最好的柑橘类水果吗?

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2020年07月19日

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Are You Throwing Out the Best Part of Your Citrus Fruits?

你扔掉了最好的柑橘类水果吗?

Most people buy citrus for the fruit or juice and then toss the peels, but there's a lot going on in those peels that would be a shame to waste.

大多数人买柑橘作为水果或果汁,然后扔掉果皮,但果皮中有很多东西,浪费会很可惜。

The zest of lemons, limes, oranges, grapefruits, and all of their cousins is comprised of the colorful part of the peel – it's the place where the fruit's aromatic oils live and it is heaven on Earth. While the white part of the peel – the pith – is bitter, the colorful layer above has all the depth of the citrus flavor. The juice and flesh may have the bright acid and edible fruit, which is of course what they're famous for – but the zest's rich, fruity, and floral flavor is one of the best kitchen ingredients around.

柠檬、酸橙、橙子、葡萄柚以及其他类似水果的果皮的味道都是由色彩鲜艳的部分构成的——那里是水果芳香精油的栖息地,也是地球上的天堂。虽然果皮的白色部分——果核——是苦的,但上面多彩的一层却有柑橘的味道。它的汁液和果肉可能含有明亮的酸味和可食用的水果,这当然是它们出名的原因。但是,它浓郁的果香和花香是最好的厨房食材之一。

©. ch_ch

Zest can be used just about anywhere to impart its flavor: Anything from salads, hummus, pasta, and compound butter to cookie dough, pancakes, ice cream, and cake batter. And really, just about anywhere else. It's my go-to ingredient for the best salad dressing and the secret of success for my guacamole and buttercreams. And if you use citrus already, it's free!

任何地方都可以添加这种风味:沙拉、鹰嘴豆泥、意大利面、混合黄油、曲奇饼、煎饼、冰淇淋和蛋糕面糊。实际上,几乎是其他任何地方。它是我做沙拉酱的必备原料,也是制作鳄梨沙拉酱和奶油的成功秘诀。如果你已经在用柑橘,它是免费的!

WHEN TO ZEST

什么时候保存这种风味

The best approach that I have come up with is to zest an entire fruit right before eating it or juicing it since it's easier to zest a whole fruit. The zest can then be used or stored using one of the methods below.

我想到的最好的方法是在吃之前给整个水果去皮或者榨汁,因为这样更容易给整个水果去皮。然后,可以使用以下方法之一使用或存储这种风味。

TYPES OF ZEST

风味的类型

© Melissa Breyer

For times when you want the texture of the zest to disappear, the finest grating is best, like with a microplane. I almost always go with this method because it seems to release the most flavor. For use as a delicious garnish, the little curls from a zester are good – perfect for topping cookies or cupcakes. For cocktails, the vegetable peeler or knife make a more sizable garnish. While I have acquired all of these tools over the years, one could get pretty similar results for all of these with a sharp knife and some knife skills.

如果你想让果皮的质感消失,最好使用最细的格栅,比如微刨。我几乎总是使用这种方法,因为它似乎释放出最多的味道。作为美味的装饰,zester上的小卷是很好的-完美的装饰饼干或纸杯蛋糕。调制鸡尾酒时,用蔬菜削皮器或刀做更大的装饰。虽然这些年来我已经掌握了所有这些工具,但用一把锋利的刀和一些刀工技巧,你可以得到非常相似的结果。

HOW TO STORE

如何存储

If you are not going to use your zest right away, it will last until you need it. Zesting right onto the food or into a storage container ensures that all that nice aromatic oil doesn't end up on the cutting board.

如果你不打算马上用你的“香料”,它会一直持续到你需要的时候。直接放在食物上或放入储藏容器中,可以确保所有美味的芳香油不会落在砧板上。

Refrigerate: For use in a couple of days, just store it in the refrigerator.

冷藏:为了在几天内使用,只要储存在冰箱里。

Freeze: Freeze zest for up to six months; this makes an excellent source. No defrosting required.

冷冻:将皮屑冷冻六个月;这是一个很好的来源。不需要除霜。

Dry: Make zest or twists and allow to dry, about three or four days for twists, less for zest. Store in an airtight container.

干燥:做皮或拧干,让它变干,大约3到4天的时间,拧干皮的时间要少一些。储存在密封的容器中。

Make powdered extract: Dry like above, and then pulverize into a powder in a blender or spice grinder. This can be added to spice blends (like lemon pepper) or delicious citrus sugar.

制作粉末提取物:像上面那样干燥,然后在搅拌机或香料研磨机中磨成粉末。这可以添加到混合香料(如柠檬胡椒)或美味的柑橘糖中。

Make citrus olive oil: Pound course zest or strips in a mortar and pestle with some oil added. Place in a jar with more oil and let rest for six hours. Strain into a clean jar.

制作柑橘橄榄油:将菜皮或条状物放入臼中,加入一些油捣成杵状。放入一个装有更多油的罐子,静置6小时。放入一个干净的罐子。

Candy peels: Sugar and citrus is one of the food world's best partnerships. You can candy orange peel for the French confection known as "orangette," you can candy lemon strips for sweet garnishes (or just eating straight), and you can even candy whole kumquats.

糖皮:糖和柑橘是食品界最好的合作伙伴之一。你可以用橘子皮来做法国的蜜饯,也可以用柠檬条来做甜的配菜(或者直接吃),你甚至可以用整个金橘来做蜜饯。


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