循环时尚能减少工业浪费吗?
循环时尚能减少工业浪费吗?
Even if you eschew "fashion," you still wear clothes. And right now, the clothing industry is a mess. What we wear is cheaper than it's ever been, and those low prices lead to tons of waste — literally. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a garbage-truck's worth of textiles is wasted every second.
即使你避开“时尚”，你还是会穿衣服。现在，服装业一片混乱。我们穿的衣服比以往任何时候都便宜，而这些低价导致了大量的浪费——真的。根据艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会的数据，每秒钟就有一辆垃圾车的纺织品被浪费掉。
While it's great to donate or recycle your clothes when you're done with them, only about 15 percent of our clothes get made into "shoddy," which is cheap fabric made from ripped up garments, or reused in another way. Less than 5 percent of what's donated makes its way to thrift store shelves. Less than 1 percent of clothing is recycled into new clothing. All the rest is landfilled.
当你用完衣服后，将它们捐赠或回收利用是件好事，但我们的衣服中只有大约15%被制成了“劣等”，也就是用破衣服制成的廉价布料，或者以其他方式重复使用。只有不到5%的捐赠物被送到了旧货商店的货架上。只有不到1%的衣服被回收制成新衣服。其余的都被填满了。
If your closet looks like this, you're not alone: The size of the average American wardrobe is five time larger than it was in 1980. . (Photo: Vyacheslav Svetlichnyy/Shutterstock)
Making clothes takes a tremendous amount of energy. Polyester production has doubled in the last 15 years, but polyester is made from oil and gas, which are environmentally costly to extract from the earth, and polyester won't biodegrade. About 30 percent of all clothes are made from cotton, a water-intensive crop that often uses pesticides and insecticides. Dyeing cotton takes more water and chemicals, and then the material is flown around the world to be sewed (sometimes in sweatshop-like conditions) before it's shipped again (burning more fossil fuels) to us in the U.S.
做衣服要耗费大量的精力。涤纶的产量在过去的15年里翻了一番，但是涤纶是从石油和天然气中提取的，从地球上提取对环境来说是昂贵的，而且涤纶不能生物降解。大约30%的衣服是由棉花制成的，棉花是一种耗水作物，经常使用杀虫剂和杀虫剂。染色棉需要更多的水和化学物质，然后这些材料被空运到世界各地进行缝制(有时是在类似血汗工厂的环境中)，然后再被运输到美国(燃烧更多的化石燃料)。
'Our textile system is broken'
“我们的纺织系统坏了”
Using figures from 2015, this graphic illustrates the flow of material from production to waste. (Photo: Courtesy Ellen MacArthur Foundation)
Fashion production needs a makeover, and as the Ellen MacArthur Foundation has so boldly stated: "Our textile system is broken." The foundation's mission is to "accelerate the transition to a circular economy," and they recently launched the Circular Fibres Initiative targeting the fashion industry. Stella McCartney, H&M;, Lenzing, NIKE Inc., and more than 30 other organizations have signed on to support the effort.
时装生产需要改头换面，正如艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会所大胆声明的那样:“我们的纺织系统已经崩溃。”该基金会的使命是“加快向循环经济的转型”，他们最近启动了针对时尚行业的循环纤维倡议。Stella McCartney, H&M;， Lenzing, NIKE Inc.和其他30多个组织已经签署支持这项工作。
In this vision for a new textiles economy, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, "clothes would be designed to last longer, be worn more, and be easily rented, resold or recycled, and no toxic substances or pollutants would be released during their production and use."
艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会认为，在这一新的纺织经济愿景中，“服装将被设计得耐穿、耐穿、易于出租、转售或回收，而且在生产和使用过程中不会释放有毒物质或污染物。”
This graphic illustrates the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's ambitions for a new textiles economy. (Photo: Courtesy Ellen MacArthur Foundation)
The goal is a no-waste clothing and textiles system. It's possible, but it will require plenty of effort: "New business models, technological innovation, radical collaboration, and most importantly, rapid acceleration are critical steps the report identifies to catalyze this critical transformation,” said Jason Kibbey, the CEO of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition.
其目标是建立一个无浪费的服装和纺织品系统。可持续服装联盟的首席执行官杰森·基贝说:“新的商业模式、技术创新、激进的合作，以及最重要的是，快速加速发展，这些都是促进这一关键转型的关键步骤。”
