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什么是快时尚——为什么它是个问题?

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2020年07月01日

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What Is Fast Fashion — and Why Is It a Problem?

什么是快时尚——为什么它是个问题?

Fast fashion describes cheap, stylish, mass-produced clothes that have a huge impact on the environment. These garments appeal to shoppers because they are affordable and trendy. But because they aren’t built to last and quickly go out of style, these clothes are quickly discarded, piling up in landfills.

“快时尚”指的是对环境产生巨大影响的廉价、时尚、大批量生产的服装。这些服装吸引购物者,因为他们负担得起和时尚。但是,因为它们不耐用,不容易过时,这些衣服很快就被丢弃,堆在垃圾填埋场。

In addition to environmental issues, fast fashion garments spark a lot of ethical concerns. They are often made in sweatshops where workers are employed for long hours in unsafe conditions.

除了环境问题,快时尚服装还引发了许多伦理问题。它们通常是在血汗工厂制造的,那里的工人在不安全的条件下工作很长时间。

The average American purchases about 70 pieces of clothing per year.Andrei Stanescu / Getty Images

The Definition of Fast Fashion

快时尚的定义

In 1960, the average American adult bought fewer than 25 items of clothing each year. The average American household spent more than 10 percent of its income on clothing and shoes. And, about 95% of clothes sold in the U.S. were made in the U.S.

1960年,美国成年人平均每年买不到25件衣服。美国家庭平均花费收入的10%以上在服装和鞋子上。在美国销售的服装中,大约95%是在美国制造的。

But things began to change in the ‘70s. Massive factories and textile mills opened in China and other countries throughout Asia and Latin America. With the promise of cheap labor and material, they could mass-produce inexpensive garments quickly. By the ‘80s, a few big American retail stores began outsourcing production.

但到了70年代,情况开始发生变化。大量的工厂和纺织厂在中国以及亚洲和拉丁美洲的其他国家开业。有了廉价的劳动力和材料,他们可以迅速大量生产廉价的服装。到了80年代,美国一些大型零售商店开始外包生产。

The Problems With Fast Fashion

快时尚带来的问题

Although consumers might enjoy having inexpensive and stylish clothes, fast fashion has been criticized for its environmental and ethical impact.

虽然消费者可能喜欢便宜时髦的衣服,但快时尚一直因其对环境和道德的影响而受到批评。

Textile Waste

纺织废料

The average American throws away about 70 pounds of clothing and textiles each year. Srdjanns74 / Getty Images

We’re more likely to throw away cheap, trendy clothes than more expensive, timeless pieces. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), 16.91 million tons of textile waste were generated in 2017, of which only 2.6 million tons were recycled.

我们更有可能扔掉便宜时髦的衣服,而不是昂贵的、永恒的衣服。根据美国环境保护署(EPA)的数据,2017年产生了1691万吨纺织废料,其中只有260万吨被回收利用。

CO2 Emissions

二氧化碳排放

Besides the sheer bulk of waste in landfills, fast fashion has an impact on the environment through carbon emissions. The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global CO2 emissions each year, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. That’s more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. Researchers project that if things don’t change, by 2050 the fashion industry will use up a quarter of the world’s carbon budget.

除了垃圾填埋场的大量垃圾,快时尚还通过碳排放对环境产生影响。据艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会称,时尚业每年的二氧化碳排放量占全球总量的10%。这比所有国际航班和海运加起来还要多。研究人员预测,如果情况不改变,到2050年,时装业将消耗世界碳预算的四分之一。

Water Pollution

水污染

In addition to CO2 pollution, these clothing items can contribute to marine pollution. Clothes made out of synthetic fabrics can contain microplastics. When they are washed or if they are sitting in a landfill and are subject to rains, these tiny shreds of plastic are flushed into wastewater systems and eventually make their way out into the ocean.

除了二氧化碳污染,这些衣物还会造成海洋污染。合成纤维制成的衣服可能含有微塑料。当它们被洗掉,或者被埋在垃圾填埋场,受到雨水的侵蚀时,这些微小的塑料碎片会被冲进废水系统,最终进入海洋。

Unsafe Labor Conditions

不安全的劳动条件

In order to mass produce so many inexpensive garments so quickly, items often aren’t ethically made. Factories are often sweatshops where laborers work in unsafe conditions for low wages and long hours. In many cases, children are employed and basic human rights are violated, reports EcoWatch.

为了快速批量生产这么多便宜的衣服,这些衣服的生产往往有违道德。工厂往往是血汗工厂,劳动者在不安全的条件下工作,工资低,工作时间长。据EcoWatch报道,在许多情况下,儿童被雇佣,基本人权受到侵犯。

Alternatives to Fast Fashion

快时尚的替代品

The aptly named alternative to fast fashion is slow fashion.

快时尚的另一种选择是慢时尚。

Coined by eco textiles consultant and author Kate Fletcher, the phrase is about buying ethical, sustainable, quality garments.

这个说法是由环保纺织品顾问和作家凯特·弗莱彻提出的,指的是购买合乎道德、可持续、高质量的服装。

“Slow fashion is a glimpse of a different – and more sustainable – future for the textile and clothing sector and an opportunity for business to be done in a way that respects workers, environment and consumers in equal measure,” Fletcher writes. “Such a future is but a garment away.”

弗莱彻写道:“慢时尚是纺织业和服装业一个不同的、更可持续的未来的一瞥,也是一个以平等尊重工人、环境和消费者的方式开展业务的机会。这样的未来近在咫尺。”

Repairing and Donating

修补和捐赠

There are more steps you can take to make sure the clothes you have last longer or don’t end up in a landfill.

你可以采取更多的步骤来确保你的衣服穿得更久,或者不会被扔进垃圾填埋场。

Wash clothes only as necessary, then use a gentle detergent, to extend their life.

只有在必要时才洗衣服,然后使用温和的洗涤剂,以延长它们的寿命。

Repair rips, broken zippers, and lost buttons instead of tossing damaged items.

修补破损的拉链和丢失的纽扣,而不是扔掉损坏的物品。

Donate what you no longer wear. Use this location finder from the Council for Textile Recycling to find a donation/recycling center near you.

捐出你不再穿的衣服。利用这个纺织物回收委员会的定位器可以找到你附近的捐赠/回收中心。

Have a clothing exchange with friends.

和朋友交换衣服。


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