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香蕉面包很受欢迎

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2020年05月05日

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Banana bread is having a moment

香蕉面包很受欢迎

If there's an unofficial snack of the coronavirus pandemic, it's a sweet, soft loaf of home-baked banana bread.

如果有一种非官方的关于冠状病毒流行的小吃,那就是一种家庭自制的甜软的香蕉面包。

The easy-to-make treat has been the most searched-for recipe across all US states for the last 30 days. Web searches soared 54% over the same period, as Americans looked for both time-tested classic versions and recipes with a twist like vegan chocolate-chip banana bread.

在过去的30天里,这种易于制作的美食成为全美搜索量最高的食谱。网络搜索量同期飙升54%,因为美国人既寻找久经考验的经典版本,也寻找像纯素食巧克力片香蕉面包这样的食谱。

香蕉面包很受欢迎

The mental health benefits of baking banana bread

烤香蕉面包对心理健康的好处

Psychology explains the banana-bread trend, said Julie Ohana, a licensed master social worker and the founder of Culinary Art Therapy in West Bloomfield, Michigan, where she uses cooking as a means of communication and expression.

密歇根州西布卢姆菲尔德的烹饪艺术疗法创始人、持牌社会工作硕士朱莉·奥哈纳说,心理学解释了香蕉面包的流行趋势。她在那里用烹饪作为交流和表达的方式。

"It strikes a chord with everybody," Ohana said. "It's joy and comfort and familiarity."

“这引起了所有人的共鸣,”奥哈纳说。“它是快乐、舒适和熟悉。”

That's especially important at a stressful time, Ohana said. "We're all looking for ways to make ourselves feel better and make ourselves feel comforted."

奥哈纳说,这在压力大的时候尤其重要。“我们都在寻找让自己感觉更好、感到安慰的方法。”

But the benefits of baking go beyond nostalgic comfort food, explained Ohana, who believes spending time in the kitchen can help manage stress, increase self-esteem and teach mindfulness.

但奥哈纳解释说,烘焙的好处不仅仅是能让人产生怀旧之情的美食,她认为花时间在厨房里可以帮助控制压力,增强自尊,培养专注力。

As screen time goes up for many Americans, Ohana said that baking is a valuable chance to unplug. "Close the screen, step away from it all, gather some ingredients," she suggested. "Do something that's much more of a sensory experience."

对于许多美国人来说,随着屏幕时间的增加,奥哈纳说,烘焙是一个摆脱电子产品的宝贵机会。“关上屏幕,远离一切,收集一些原材料,”她建议道。“做一些更像是感官体验的事情。”

Even the simple, repetitive movements of baking, such as stirring batter, cracking eggs and kneading bread can bring mental health benefits, Ohana said.

奥哈纳说,即使是搅拌面糊、打鸡蛋、揉面包等简单重复的烘焙动作也有益于心理健康。

"There's a psychological term called 'cadence,'" she explained. "When you do something over and over again, it creates stability and feelings ofcomfort... it soothes our minds and our bodies."

“有一个心理学术语叫‘节奏’,”她解释道。“当你一遍又一遍地做某件事时,它会给你带来稳定和舒适感……它抚慰我们的心灵和身体。”

An all-American recipe for the pandemic

这是一种全美流行的食谱

Banana bread isn't just therapeutic. It's also fundamentally American, according to food historian Linda Civitello.

香蕉面包不仅具有治疗作用。根据食物历史学家琳达·西维塔洛的说法,它基本上也是美式的。

For thousands of years, cooks used yeast to add loft to their baking, which could mean long hours tending to rising bread. But by the 18th century, Americans were baking with alkaline salts such as pearlash and potash that raised baked goods via a quick chemical reaction, and were the precursors to modern-day baking soda and baking powder.

千百年来,厨师们用酵母来增加他们的烘焙面包的高度,这可能意味着要花长时间来使面包膨胀。但是到了18世纪,美国人已经开始使用诸如珍珠灰和碳酸钾之类的碱性盐来烘焙,这种盐通过快速的化学反应来提高烘焙食品的质量,并且是现代小苏打和泡打粉的前身。

"Baking powder was an American invention," said Civitello. "It's so American. It's cheap, it's quick, it's easy and it's foolproof."

“泡打粉是美国人的发明,”西维提洛说 。“这太美式了。它便宜、快捷、简单,而且万无一失。”

The use of chemical leavenings, as baking powder and soda are called, helped create whole new categories of baked goods. One of those is quick breads, Civitello said.

化学膨松剂的使用,如泡打粉和苏打粉,帮助创造了全新种类的烘焙食品。西维提洛说,其中之一就是速食面包。

(Quick breads include now-familiar treats such as banana bread, pumpkin bread.)

(速食面包包括现在很常见的香蕉面包、南瓜面包。)

香蕉面包很受欢迎

Banana bread, it turns out, was born out of three major American food innovations: industrially produced chemical leavening, quick breads and long-distance shipping of perishable foods.

事实证明,香蕉面包诞生于美国三大食品创新:工业生产的化学膨松剂、速食面包和易腐食品的长途运输。

Banana bread's enduring appeal

香蕉面包的持久魅力

"It was the early 1930s when banana bread really started to take off," said PJ Hamel, a baking expert at the King Arthur Flour Company.

亚瑟王面粉公司的烘焙专家PJ·哈默尔说,“那是20世纪30年代初,香蕉面包真正开始腾飞。”

That's when bananas were cheap and ubiquitous, and recipes for the treat became widespread, wrote Hamel in a blog post about banana-bread history. Even through the Great Depression, said Hamel, bananas were cheap and easy to buy.

哈默尔在一篇关于香蕉面包历史的博客文章中写道,那时候香蕉很便宜,到处都有,制作香蕉面包的食谱也很流行。哈默尔说,即使在大萧条时期,香蕉也很便宜,很容易买到。

At a time when resources were scarce, Americans were scrupulous about preventing food waste, making banana bread a favorite. "They were able to take overripe bananas and do something good with them," Hamel said.

在资源匮乏的年代,美国人小心翼翼地防止食物浪费,使香蕉面包成为人们的最爱。哈默尔说:“他们可以把熟透的香蕉拿来做些有益的事情。”

"I think a lot of people grew up on it," she said. "You learned to make it in Girl Scouts, or you learned to make it inhome ec class. A lot of people have good memories of banana bread."

“我想很多人都是靠它长大的,”她说。“你是在女童子军里学会的,还是在家政课上学会的。很多人对香蕉面包都有美好的回忆。”


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