夏洛克·福尔摩斯：从未存在 永远流传（2）
除Ulster款大衣外，书中的福尔摩斯还带着围巾。雷斯伯恩版福尔摩斯的彩色丝绸围巾在今天看来显得近乎女性化，但它与19世纪30年代的时尚十分协调。在盖·里奇(Guy Ritchie)的蒸汽朋克电影《夏洛克·福尔摩斯》里，小罗伯特·唐尼(Robert Downey Jr)版福尔摩斯浮华的领巾是该角色唯一显示福尔摩斯身份的装束，尽管这似乎更适合2008年的布鲁克林，而非维多利亚时代的伦敦。“卷福”的蓝灰色围巾则有衬托大衣和眼睛的效果。
It was Paget who introduced the deerstalker, mentioned nowhere in Conan Doyle’s writings. (Holmes never uttered “Elementary, my dear Watson!” either.) As its name implies, it was a hunting garment, suitable for outdoor pursuits. Paget’s Holmes wore it in the country, never in London. However, Rathbone and subsequent Holmeses wore it everywhere, including indoors. As a trope, the deerstalker improved upon the generic “ear-flapped travelling-cap” Conan Doyle gave his hero. “Holmes never hunted,” exhibition curator Alex Werner reminds us. “But Conan Doyle used the metaphor of hunting to express Holmes’s pursuit of the truth.” Though the deerstalker is no longer a staple of the English gentleman’s wardrobe, it makes an ironic appearance in Sherlock; Cumberbatch impulsively dons one to hide his face from the paparazzi, only to have it become his trademark. (His humiliating nom de tabloid is “Hat Detective.”) Downey, however, wore a fedora, in keeping with his Brooklyn hipster interpretation.
福尔摩斯的猎鹿帽是佩吉特在插画中首创的，柯南·道尔在书中从未提及，原著中只有“有耳遮的旅行帽”(“ear-flapped travelling cap”)的字句。顾名思义，猎鹿帽属于狩猎装束，适合户外活动。佩吉特画中的福尔摩斯只在乡村戴猎鹿帽，从不在伦敦戴。而在雷斯伯恩和之后的各个版本中，福尔摩斯任何时候都戴着猎鹿帽，包括在室内。展览策展人亚历克斯·沃纳(Alex Werner)提醒参观者：“福尔摩斯从不狩猎，柯南·道尔只是借狩猎这一隐喻来体现福尔摩斯对真相的追求。”尽管猎鹿帽不再是英国绅士衣柜里的必备品，但它已是福尔摩斯的标志特征。“卷福”为了躲避狗仔队而戴上猎鹿帽遮脸，结果使猎鹿帽变成了他的标志(他还被戏称为“帽子侦探”)。唐尼戴的浅顶软呢帽，则保持着他的布鲁克林风格。
His gentlemanly dress often hid what Conan Doyle called Holmes’s “Bohemian soul.” The melancholy, violin-playing, cocaine-injecting insomniac was betrayed by his off-duty clothes, specifically his collection of dressing gowns, which ranged from “mouse-colored” to a dandyish purple. The camel version on display at the Museum of London is the most subdued of several Cumberbatch wears in the BBC series.
在福尔摩斯的绅士范穿着之下，隐藏着柯南·道尔所说的“不羁的灵魂”( “Bohemian soul”)。忧郁的小提琴演奏，注射可卡因引起的失眠症，都从他日常的穿着中显现出来，尤其是他的睡袍。福尔摩斯的睡袍很多，从灰褐色到新潮的紫色，伦敦博物馆目前展出的驼色睡袍是《神探夏洛克》里“卷福”所穿的颜色最为黯淡的一款。
Holmes was well aware of the power of clothing to reveal as well as transform. Anthropometry—a legitimate scientific discipline in the Victorian era—held that physical characteristics corresponded to character traits; Holmes’s high forehead indicated the mighty brain behind it. Clothing, by extension, could do the same—a perfectly reasonable assumption at a time when read-to-wear was in its infancy and those who could afford to still had their clothes custom-made. “Dress is a main character in the stories when it comes to providing clues for Holmes,” Long says. No scuffed shoe or scratched pocketwatch escaped his notice; the smallest sartorial detail could be the key to solving a case. He once deduced an entire psychological history from the “very ordinary black hat” that led him to the famous blue carbuncle.
福尔摩斯深知服装的力量。在维多利亚时代，人体测量学(Anthropometry)是一个合法的学科。根据人体测量学，物理特征往往反映人的性格特点，比如福尔摩斯的高前额暗示了其强大的大脑，服装也是一样。时尚策展人朗说：“在福尔摩斯思考办案线索时，服装扮演了重要角色。”不管是磨损的鞋子，还是有划痕的怀表，都逃不开福尔摩斯的火眼，衣服上最细微的细节都可能是破案的关键。福尔摩斯曾仅靠一只“非常普通的黑色帽子”就推导出完整的作案心理过程，成就了著名的“蓝宝石案”。
Holmes’s methods—baffling to Watson—are well known to modern-day costume curators and conservators. “We are quite Sherlockian in our approach,” Long says. “We regularly look at wear marks, labels, and types of materials.” Inspired by the Holmes stories, Long and “an army of volunteers” scoured the museum’s archives for historical garments with tell-tale clues to the wearer’s identity. A pair of men’s evening shoes on display has circular wear marks on the soles, suggestive of dancing; a woman’s blouse with ink-stained sleeves recalls the one that helped Holmes identify his client as a typist in A Case of Identity.
福尔摩斯的这些方法对华生来说很费解，但是对于当代时尚策展人和管理员来说却是众所周知的。朗说，“我们的方法和夏洛克很像。我们会经常查看磨损痕迹、商标、用料类型。”受福尔摩斯故事启发，朗和一群志愿者用一些能说明穿戴者身份的线索为博物馆标记了历史服装。一双男式晚宴鞋有圆形的磨损痕迹，是跳舞的记号;一件袖子被墨水弄脏的女士衬衫让人想起了在《身份谜案》中福尔摩斯也曾用同样的方法辨认出他的客户是一名打字员。
A master of disguise, Holmes had an arsenal of unlikely alter egos, from an old lady to a “simple-minded Nonconformist clergyman.” Long notes that although Holmes’s borrowed makeup and wardrobe techniques from the Victorian stage, his disguises were not particularly theatrical or exotic, but “the disguises of the everyday.” In Sherlock, Cumberbatch has convincingly posed as a French waiter, a Guardsman, a hoodie-clad heroin addict, and a Pakistani terrorist.
福尔摩斯可以称得是一个伪装大师，他能完美演绎多种不同的个性，从老妇人到“头脑简单的新教牧师”。朗表示，福尔摩斯所用的化妆和着装技术虽源自维多利亚时代，却从不显得夸张或奇异，相反，它们非常“符合日常生活”。在《神探夏洛克》里，“卷福”已经成功地伪装过法国侍者、英国卫兵、身着连帽衫的瘾君子以及巴基斯坦恐怖分子。
But Cumberbatch’s greatest disappearing act is his effortless embodiment of Conan Doyle’s archetypal character: the angular silhouette, the hawk-like profile, the cape-like coat. A distinct lack of physical resemblance may be why the other modern-day TV Holmes, Elementary’s Jonny Lee Miller, has struggled to connect with viewers. Miller (like Downey) is more of a Watson than a Sherlock—compact and muscular rather than tall and lanky. It follows, then, that his clothes also break the mold. A floppy coat would not just envelop but swamp him; instead, a double-breasted pea coat provides warmth in the New York winters, while a red tartan scarf provides what little sartorial panache he possesses. But his endless supply of rumpled vests and ill-fitting blazers convey his Englishness—especially next to Lucy Liu’s quintessentially chic New Yorker of a Watson—while his habit of buttoning his shirts up to the chin telegraphs the character’s OCD tendencies. In this case, however, there’s no mystery why it’s Liu’s Watson wardrobe that has inspired style bloggers.
棱角分明的轮廓，鹰一样的侧脸，还有斗篷大衣——“卷福”几乎就是柯南·道尔原型人物的化身。而其他版本的福尔摩斯缺少观众认同感，与演员本身形象与原著形象有差距分不开，比如《基本演绎法》(Elementary)里的约翰尼·李·米勒(Jonny Lee Miller)。米勒(有点像小罗伯特·唐尼)结实且肌肉发达，更符合华生的形象，而非高而瘦福尔摩斯形象。此外，他的着装也有违人物原型。尽管宽松的双排扣外套在纽约的冬天里让人感觉格外温暖，红格子围巾也更能体现他本身所具有的气质，但他那永远皱巴巴的衬衣和不合身的上衣却透出浓浓的英格兰风格，尤其当他与典型纽约时髦范的刘玉玲(Lucy Liu)版华生站在一起时，更是对比鲜明。米勒的衬衫扣子总是一丝不苟地扣到下巴，体现了人物的强迫症倾向。在这种情况下，刘玉玲版华生的穿着风格能引起时尚博主们的注意，也就不足为奇。
