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双语·邦斯舅舅 二、一套少见的服装

所属教程:译林版·邦斯舅舅

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2022年05月08日

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II

The man so ill-favored was dressed after the fashion of shabby gentility, a fashion which the rich not seldom try to copy. He wore low shoes beneath gaiters of the pattern worn by the Imperial Guard, doubtless for the sake of economy, because they kept the socks clean. The rusty tinge of his black breeches, like the cut and the white or shiny line of the creases, assigned the date of the purchase some three years back. The roomy garments failed to disguise the lean proportions of the wearer, due apparently rather to constitution than to a Pythagorean regimen, for the worthy man was endowed with thick lips and a sensual mouth; and when he smiled, displayed a set of white teeth which would have done credit to a shark. A shawl-waistcoat, likewise of black cloth, was supplemented by a white under-waistcoat, and yet again beneath this gleamed the edge of a red knitted under-jacket, to put you in mind of Garat's five waistcoats. A huge white muslin stock with a conspicuous bow, invented by some exquisite to charm "the charming sex" in 1809, projected so far above the wearer's chin that the lower part of his face was lost, as it were, in a muslin abyss. A silk watch-guard, plaited to resemble the keepsakes made of hair, meandered down the shirt front and secured his watch from the improbable theft. The greenish coat, though older by some three years than the breeches, was remarkably neat; the black velvet collar and shining metal buttons, recently renewed, told of carefulness which descended even to trifles.

The particular manner of fixing the hat on the occiput, the triple waistcoat, the vast cravat engulfing the chin, the gaiters, the metal buttons on the greenish coat,—all these reminiscences of Imperial fashions were blended with a sort of afterwaft and lingering perfume of the coquetry of the Incroyable—with an indescribable finical something in the folds of the garments, a certain air of stiffness and correctness in the demeanor that smacked of the school of David, that recalled Jacob's spindle-legged furniture. At first sight, moreover, you set him down either for the gentleman by birth fallen a victim to some degrading habit, or for the man of small independent means whose expenses are calculated to such a nicety that the breakage of a windowpane, a rent in a coat, or a visit from the philanthropic pest who asks you for subscriptions to a charity, absorbs the whole of a month's little surplus of pocket-money. If you had seen him that afternoon, you would have wondered how that grotesque face came to be lighted up with a smile; usually, surely, it must have worn the dispirited, passive look of the obscure toiler condemned to labor without ceasing for the barest necessaries of life. Yet when you noticed that the odd-looking old man was carrying some object (evidently precious) in his right hand with a mother's care; concealing it under the skirts of his coat to keep it from collisions in the crowd, and still more, when you remarked that important air always assumed by an idler when intrusted with a commission, you would have suspected him of recovering some piece of lost property, some modern equivalent of the marquise's poodle; you would have recognized the assiduous gallantry of the "man of the Empire" returning in triumph from his mission to some charming woman of sixty, reluctant as yet to dispense with the daily visit of her elderly attentif. In Paris only among great cities will you see such spectacles as this; for of her boulevards Paris makes a stage where a never-ending drama is played gratuitously by the French nation in the interests of Art.

二、一套少见的服装

这个在造物前面极不得宠的人,穿得跟清寒的上等人一样,那是有钱人常常模仿的装束。帝国禁卫军式的长筒鞋罩,把鞋子盖住了,使他可以把一双袜子多穿几天。黑呢裤发出好些半红不红的闪光;裁剪的款式,跟褶痕上面又像发白又像发亮的条纹,都证明裤子已经穿了三年。衣衫的宽大并掩饰不了瘦削的体格。他的瘦是天生的,并非学毕太哥尔的样儿而素食的缘故;因为老头儿的嘴巴生得很肉感,嘴唇很厚,笑起来一口牙齿跟鲨鱼的不相上下。大翻领的背心也是黑呢料子的,里头衬一件白背心,还露出第三件红毛线背心的边,教你想起从前迦拉穿到五件背心的故事[1]。白纱的领结,扣得那么有模有样,正是一八〇九年代的漂亮哥儿为了勾引美人儿而苦心推敲的;可是那硕大无朋的领结,拥在下巴前面,似乎把他的脸埋在一个窟窿里。一条编成发辫式的丝表链,穿过背心,拴在衬衫上,仿佛真会有人偷他的表似的!半绿不绿的大褂非常干净,比裤子的年代还要多上三年;丝绒领跟新换过的白铜纽扣,显得穿的人平时的小心简直是无微不至。

把帽子戴在脑后的习惯,三套头的背心,埋没下巴颏儿的大领带,长筒鞋罩,绿色大褂的白铜纽扣,都是帝政时代款式的遗迹;跟这些相配的,还有当年信不信由你的哥儿们[2]那股卖俏的劲儿,衣褶之间那种说不出的细巧,浑身上下那种整齐而呆板的气息,令人想起达维特的画派和约各设计的瘦长家具。只要瞧上一眼,你就会觉得他要不是一个有教养而给什么嗜好断送了的人,便是一个进款不多的家伙,一切开支都是被有限的收入固定了的,万一打破一块玻璃,撕破件衣服,或是碰上募捐等等的要命事儿,就得把他整个月内小小的娱乐取消。你要在场的话,一定觉得奇怪,这张奇丑的脸怎么会浮起一点笑意,它平时的表情不是应当又冷又凄凉,像所有为了挣口苦饭而奋斗的人一样吗?可是这古怪的老人,像母亲保护孩子那么小心,右手拿着件分明很贵重的东西,藏在双重上衣的左襟底下,生怕不巧给人碰坏了:你看到这个,尤其看到他急急忙忙,活像那些有闲的人偶尔替人跑腿的神气,你可能以为他找到了侯爵夫人的小狗什么的,带着帝政时代的人物所有的那种殷勤,得意扬扬地给送回去;他那位上了六十岁的美人儿,还少不了他每天的问候呢。世界上唯有在巴黎才能看到这等景致,大街上就在连续不断地演这种义务戏,让法国人饱了眼福,给艺术家添了资料。

注解:

[1] 迦拉(1762—1823)为当时有名的歌唱家,极讲究穿着。

[2] 帝政时期的漂亮人物,当时称为Incroyable,谓其奇装异服,竞骛新奇,至于不可思议。

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