Jason Wu：时装的分界正在打破

01 Jason Wu：时装的分界正在打破

Jason Wu是最炙手可热的华裔时装设计师之一，米歇尔·奥巴马就曾身着他设计的礼服出席总统就职仪式等重要场合。他近期开始设计运动服饰，尝试将功能与美融合于一身。快和FT记者一起听听他的时尚经吧。

Q1.怎样形容你为这一季JASON WU x FILA运动时装注入的设计理念？

Colorful, graphic, sporty.

鲜艳的，条块的，运动的。

What I do is very inherent and very feminine dressy, and glamourous.And here, I have to translate that sense of glamour into something that's very sporty, very everyday, very casual.And also in men's wear.

我的设计通常都非常柔美，样式华丽。在这里，我要将奢华转化为非常具有运动气息的、日常的、随性的风格。包括男装在内。

So those are things that made it interesting for me to do this collaboration, because it's not expected.There is definitely a lot of flora that can be seen in the whole section, that is a very signature Jason Wu DNA.

这是我愿意接受这次合作的原因。它对我是新的挑战。我使用了大量的印花，这一整系列都有它们的出现——这是我的标志性设计元素。

Q2.为何运动和时尚正走得越来越近？

I think right now fashion is in a place where you see a lot of athletic inspiration on the runways.There is no such thing as formal wear, day wear, or evening wear.Things are much more blurred, the lines are blurred, and people are getting increasingly more casual.

运动给时装界带来很多灵感，它们越来越多地出现在T台上。如今对于正装、日装和晚装的区分已经不是那么明显了。它们之间的界线越来越模糊。人们在装束上越来越随意。

They might want to do yoga, and leave the studio with the same thing.So the idea is to blur the line between what's functional and what's aesthetical, I think.

人们也许去做了瑜伽，然后穿着同一套衣服离开了瑜伽馆。现在的趋势是，设计要集功能和美感于一身。

Jason Wu

Q3.成为奥巴马夫人的“御用设计师”如何影响了你的职业生涯？

I think definitely for a Chinese guy, being able to dress the First Lady of America, is definitely my version of the American dream.Also I feel like, somehow, what I did become a part of American history, which is something I have never imagined.That is a really amazing feeling.

作为一个华裔设计师，能为美国第一夫人设计礼服，绝对就是我个人版本的“美国梦”。我感觉我的作品在某种意义上成了美国历史的一部分，这超越了我的想象。这种感觉太棒了。

You know when you are under the spotlight, when you are very young, and very new, you are all of a sudden exposed to everything.Everything you do is being recorded, and judged, and in a very broad way.

在你非常年轻，还是个新人的时候，突然完全暴露在人们的注视下，你做的每一件事情都有人记录和评论，广泛传播。

So sometimes I found that overwhelming.Now I am older, and I think things became much easier and I have much more self-confidence and understanding myself, and I feel much more comfortable being able to do projects that may not seem obvious from the first sight, such as the FILA collaboration.

我有时候会觉得压力太大。现在我又长了几岁，事情就变得简单了许多。因为我变得更自信了，对自己的理解更深，我也更愿意尝试在第一眼看起来超越我领域的事情，比如这次和FILA的合作。

Jason Wu 2017春秋系列

Q4.社交媒体正在如何影响时尚业？

I think social media is fascinating because I grew up in social media basically.What is really interesting is that you can get very inspired, because you are all the time exposed to everything that is going on in the world.

作为一个成长于社交媒体时代的人，社交媒体对我来说太神奇了。它最大的魅力在于，你每时每刻都能接触到这个世界上发生的任何事情。

It becomes a part of story-telling tool, and that is very important.Why is this piece of fabric so expensive? Because it may be the purest cashmere, and stitched in a certain way.

它正在成为一个“讲故事”的工具，这十分重要。为什么这个料子如此昂贵？也许因为它是最高等级的羊绒，也许因为缝合它的特殊工艺。

I do think even for the younger generation that can't certainly afford luxury price point, they can begin to learn and have an appreciation for things of quality and craftsmanship, and things that take a lot of time and effort to make.Social media has made that really possible and easy to see.

即便年轻一代，可能还消费不起高端时装的价位，他们可以开始去学习和欣赏什么是品质和工艺，以及那些需要很多时间和精力制作出来的东西。社交媒体把这些变得更加可视了。

Jason Wu 2016 秋季系列

Q5.做服装设计师最快乐的部分是什么？

I think it's getting to do something different everyday.It's never really the same.Every collection, you do something and run into a new challenge.You want to print on new material.You want to do something different with the fabric.Or you want to create new shapes.It's kind of problem solving everyday.It's really fun.

我想就是可以每天做不同的事情，永远不重复。每一季的设计都有新挑战，你可能希望在新的一种材料上印花，你可能想尝试新的布料，或者设计新的款型。就好像每天都活在“解决问题”的模式中。这充满乐趣。

2009年（左）和2013年（右），米歇尔·奥巴马两次选择了Jason Wu的设计，出席奥巴马的总统就职仪式

Q6.如果给东方女性一条时尚建议，会是什么？

I think the fashion advice is just to be independent and individual.That is very important within the culture where we so often look upon western standard of beauty.I think now it is all changing and there are a lot of trends and a lot of things happening in Asia.That's becoming widely noticed.

我的时尚建议就是坚持独立和个性。这在东方文化中尤为重要。因为我们老是会想去参照西方的审美，而这正在发生改变。整个世界都发现，现在亚洲时尚界有多活跃。

I think Asia itself has become a much more trend-setting place than it has never been before.That is something I feel like really interesting and really positive.

亚洲正越来越成为时尚潮流的发源地，这是个非常值得关注的积极趋势。

词汇总结

flora ['flɔrə]

n.植物区系；植物群

There is definitely a lot of flora that can be seen in the whole section.

我使用了大量的印花，这一整系列都有它们的出现。

aesthetical [i:s'θetikəl]

adj.审美的；美学的；有审美感的

So the idea is to blur the line between what's functional and what's aesthetical, I think.

现在的趋势是，设计要集功能和美感于一身。

overwhelming [,ovɚ'wɛlmɪŋ]

adj.压倒性的；势不可挡的

So sometimes I found that overwhelming.

我有时候会觉得压力太大。

cashmere [kæʃ'mɪə; 'kæʃmɪə]

n.羊绒；开士米；开士米羊毛织品

Because it may be the purest cashmere, and stitched in a certain way.

也许因为它是最高等级的羊绒，也许因为缝合它的特殊工艺。

under the spotlight

在聚光灯下，备受关注

You know when you are under the spotlight, when you are very young, and very new, you are all of a sudden exposed to everything.Everything you do is being recorded, and judged, and in a very broad way.

在你非常年轻，还是个新人的时候，突然完全暴露在人们的注视下，你做的每一件事情都有人记录和评论，广泛传播。